During a short trip to Nice, I had the chance to dine at Le Chantecler, located within the…read morehistorical hotel Le Negresco. This restaurant is helmed by chef Virginie Basselot, a Meilleur Ouvrier de France, and boasts of one Michelin star. The restaurant is on the Promenade des Anglais, with its neo-classical architecture and bright sign at night. Entering from the hotel leads to the great hall surrounded by an eclectric collection of modern and older art, mostly from France and its Riviera. One can still imagine the spendor during la Belle Époque, when affluent patrons would enjoy the fruits of Europe's imperial dominance over the world. Two World Wars and several decades of social changes later, the place has now a quiet desuetude, its flair failing to translate fully into modern elegance. But the massive central chandelier of Baccarat crystal, finest of its time and classified as a national monument, remains a resplendent sight.
The restaurant itself preserved its beautiful rococco decor, dark honey woodworks and unusually coloured carpet, with a few modern touches in the central floral arrangement and table lights. The staff is absolutely amazing! Their coordination is as smooth as silk, their attitude gracious and enthusiastic. From the initial pulling of chair to the final thank you gift of orange cake, the staff was impeccable in its etiquette and most importantly, it's genuine kindness. I had the 5-course menu, which started with 4 amuse-bouches, two of which interpreted classics from Nice: the socca and the pissaladière. The breads were presented by one of the pastry chefs, whose mother's knekkebrød recipe was adorably featured. My favorite however was the classic sourdough, a small loaf that cracked and split like a song when portioned. Normandy butter was provided, along with an interesting olive oil and lemon vegan option. The first course of ceps (boletus) presented different versions of mushroom umami: thinly sliced raw, grilled, ice cream, etc. Second came pumpkin, beautiful caramelized with fragrant toasted hazelnuts and a fairly thick, tough pastry. The fish course was a perfect piece of cod sitting on tapioca pearls, in a mantle of delicate yet slightly overwhelming lemon and butter sea foam. The pearls added a texture reminiscent of caviar, without its brutal saltiness to disturb the dish. Then came tender lamb, medium-rare as recommended, with smoky eggplant purée and croquettes. The palate cleanser was a delightful pearl of mousse dipped in green apple gelée, placed on a coral tuile and a refreshing pomegrenade reduction. Finally came the dessert, an orange water cream hidden between the thinest layers of tempered chocolate shaped like cocoa leaves, and doused in olive oil. This combination of traditional flavours and modern design was like an explosion of light, resulting in an instant smile at first taste. The fragances were unique, delicate yet strong - no wonder it is the pastry chef's signature! A formidable ending!
The meal lasted over two hours, including the concluding mignardises, with the pace slowing down after the second course, allowing for patrons to relax and engage in conversation. The dishes were greatly executed, with connecting elements from one dish to the other and a fondness for creaminess and citrus. The food was fairly conservative and did not always hit my personal palate, particularly in the first half of the meal, but many details of the classic service were very exciting, like the coordinated lifting of the cloches and unsheating of the steak knife. The young sommelier was perhaps a bit less experienced than his peers and a bit more nervous in English.
A memorable experience!
Note: The formal dress code is flexible to some degree for tourists with limited preparation, but casuals sandals and shorts should be replaced. I would recommended to call and ask if unsure!
Note 2: I saw a duck press along the windows!
