Although I'm a country girl at heart, happiest hiking with my human and canine pups in remote…read moreplaces, it's little nooks and crannies like Le Petit Sénégal / Little Senegal, centered around 116th Street, that anchor me to NYC. For a tiny fraction of the cost of a plane ticket, one can talk to so many interesting people, explore so many fascinating cultures, and eat so many different kinds of delicious food here!
Senegalese food is, like many west African, coastal cuisines, spicy, often seafood-heavy, and complex, often incredibly labor intensive to prepare. Over the years, we've tried probably a dozen different restaurants in Le Petit Sénégal, but this was the first time we'd ordered from Keur Coumba despite the fact that it's no newcomer to the scene. (I think it's been open for a decade at least.)
Keur Coumba's version of the Senegalese national dish, Thiebou Djeun (rice with fish), was quite good. It was a pleasure to sink one's fork into a thick, generous cut of meaty, white fish to find allium-heavy pockets of dark green roff (a mixture of finely chopped garlic, onion, and parsley). The fish was served over reddish brown, umami-rich, tomato paste-infused rice, circled by slices of sweet carrot, eggplant, plantain, green cabbage leaf, fresh red bell pepper, lemon -- and even some lovely xoon, the close cousin of socarrat. I thought I detected a note of crustacean in the rice (it reminded me of lobster bisque), which a survey of different recipes tell me could be shrimp bouillon, fish sauce, dried / smoked fish, mussels, or... ? I'm not sure what was used in Keur Coumba's version, but if you have a shellfish allergy, you should probably ask!
Yassa Guinaar (chicken marinated in lemon juice with sauteed onions) and yassa yapp (beef with the same lemony sauteed onions) were both deeply flavorful and oily -- I believe pleasantly so by Senegalese standards, but perhaps not pleasantly so to everyone. A finish of oil (palm, I think) is used to dress dishes, not unlike chili oil in Sichuan cuisine, tadkas in south Indian cuisine, olive oil in Greek and Turkish cuisines, etc... It might seem excessive to those unused the cuisine, but that oil adds stick to your ribs flavor, which might be particularly desirable if you consume mostly vegan dishes and calories are not as easy to come by.
The onions in the yassa preparations, caramelized to sweetness and slowly cooked in oil to a silky consistency, combined beautifully with the bright acidity of lemon / vinegar, and touch of pungent mustard. Yassa might just be the next premade slow cooker sauce peddled by a major US food corporation. It would taste great on just about anything, including hot dogs. (You're welcome, Campbell's!)
Our final dish, Borokhe, was about 1/3 oil -- more oily that we have had it at other Senegalese restaurants. I enjoyed the flavor of the vegetables, which slightly reminded me of nettles. But for us, at least, the large proportion of oil was excessive and not at that point of satiation enjoyable. I'll give our leftovers another try in a few days.
With so few data points, I can't say that Keur Coumba -- which Google tells me translates to either "Coumba's house" or "strong house" in Wolof -- serves my favorite versions of any Senegalese dish we've tried so far. But I would not hesitate to go back, especially for the Theibou Djeun, which is made with attention to detail and impressively fresh fish.
Jërëjëf, Coumba!