Situated in the busting Canary Wharf, this site of the popular Carluccio's chain has been designed to not look out of place among the ultra modern form of the business district. Walking into this 'caffè' the busyness of the outside is hardly muted, the atmosphere booming on a Saturday evening, resulting in us being forced to wait for a short while in the 'shop' that greets you when you enter the restaurant. This Italian Store pretty much just sells overpriced produce and ready made snacks to the loaded bankers who lurk around the area, and isn't necessarily in range for a modest budget bar the occasional treat.
Once we're eventually seated we order a bottle of the Umani Ronchi Montepuiciano d'abruzzo, priced at £14.25 (available for £5.21 at Waitrose Wines) from our responsive waiter. I don't pretend to be a wine expert, but it seemed to match the Mediterranean dishes well and was nice and full bodied. We also ordered one each of both the meat and vegetarian antipasto which is often an ideal way to start an Italian meal and does serve plenty for a party of five. Unfortunately this was all rather overshadowed by the fact that our wine was served in slightly grimy glasses and we had to send back our plates that were covered in a thin film of grease. Once we got around to eating the starters it was a simple affair with generous portions of meat's, vegetables and bread presented on a rustic board. Most aspects to the dish were of a good but not fantastic quality, the Globe Artichoke's being the most popular part. To be fair it likely says alot that no more than a product from a jar stands out when eating this.
The decor of the restaurant is plain and conventionally 'Italian', appearing more wannabe than authentic. I did wonder for a short while if the haphazard way the cutlery and paper napkins were thrown on the table were playing up to a Italian café vibe. I'm not sure if 'shabby chic' really covers the pieces of food and drops of wine in the salt pinch pots though...
Our main courses arrived in good time again however one dish was promptly sent back to the kitchen after arriving cold and the rest were less than average with blatant flaws. The Linguine al Frutti De Mare (Frozen? Seafood Linguine) was heavy in garlic and the portions were unevenly shared between the two people on our table that sampled it. The lasagna wasn't dire the second time that it arrived but certainly nothing to write home about and the risotto 'special' was overcooked and weak in flavour. The strongest dish was the Pasta Con Funghi (Mushroom Pasta) with velvety homemade ribbons of pasta tossed in a buttery Porcini, Shiitake, Oyster and Button mushroom sauce, however the gritty lump of a bark-like substance found half way through did put you off a tad.
After the partial disaster of the main course we decided against our better judgement to chance it on the desserts. Before this trip I was under the impression that Italians had some talent when it came to ice cream, this is probably true in Italy but those living in the UK maybe not so. I'm pretty sure I'd rather chew off my tongue than try the terribly bitter espresso flavoured one again and the grainy vanilla choice lacked any real flavour at all. The Tiramisù was a mix of overly sweetened marscapone and cake soaked in coffee that tasted like the dregs of some East End caff's pot. Frankly, all the desserts were a waste of calories.
What I found interesting about this trip to Carluccio's was how it was so drastically different to the last time in experienced it. I did expect, as you do with a good chain establishment, that the food would be similarly generous and flavoursome but it appears standards are slipping. The food this time around lacked gusto and has led me to believe the chefs simply cannot cope with this kind of busy catering. The below par food aside, it's the cleanliness that worries me most. The stuffy toilets in this place are bordering on offensive with definite low levels of hygiene making you wonder what's really going on in the kitchen.
My overall thoughts on this restaurant, and consequently the business as a whole, is that it is a chain that is starting to lose focus. The food is on a downward spiral and I fear if they can't begin to reverse it, this site may possibly go the same way as the flagship that closed some years ago. The essence of Italian food is hearty, generous and great for sharing, however leaving a meal thinking that you're food has possibly been prepared in a unclean environment is not pleasing on the mind, or ultimately the palate. read more