I decided to give this place a shot after passing by it many times and noticing it seemed to be consistently busy. I'll admit I was put off a bit by the two highly negative reviews on Yelp, but two reviews is not enough to form a consensus in my opinion -- and on Yelp, the first reviews to appear are often posted by shills or competitors. So when my family wanted to get together for a birthday celebration, I suggested we try Cafe Amici.
It's a small place in a storefront that was once a local pharmacy, with big windows fronting onto Whitneyville. A little strange for a restaurant. I was concerned when we entered because it took the staff a few moments to notice us, and we had to wait in an area with pop music blasting. Not good.
After a short interval they seated us, and gained immediate brownie points when they barely blinked at my mother's service dog, who sometimes gets an unfriendly greeting. The fare was pretty standard American Italian food, with chicken, veal, seafood and pasta available in various assortments of diavolo, Florentine, Siciliano and carbonara presentations. There were also price fixee menus for about $25 with salad, soup, an appetizer, a choice of several entrees and dessert.
I noticed a special on the menu -- ravioli stuffed with marscapone and porcini mushrooms in a truffelled cheese/butter sauce. It wasn't one of the standard price fixee entrees, but I asked if I could substitute and they said no problem. Another brownie point. I also ordered panecotta as an appetizer, and pasta fagiole as soup.
The panecotta came first. It was good, but unimpressive -- more like a home-cooked comfort food than what i expect in a restaurant -- there was no surprising flavor or ingredient to distinguish it and make it memorable.
Salad was similarly unspectacular -- but when do you expect a spectacular salad? It had a variety of fresh greens and veggies, with a tangy and tasty vinegrette. The pasta fagiole was similar to the panecotta: good, but undistinguised -- except that every now and then I'd bite into a piece of smoky pancetta; a little bit more of that flavor and this would have been exceptionally good.
The entrees arrived. My wife got pasta with a red sauce, and I was impressed. The sauce was light and tangy and bright red -- spiced and seasoned just enough to complement the taste of good, fresh tomatoes. It's easy to make a good red pasta sauce and very difficult to make an exceptional one -- this was close to exceptional.
My sister-in-law was already digging into her chicken Florentine when my raviolis arrived. We immediately swapped bites. The expression on her face told me everything I needed to know about the truffled raviolis: She stopped talking in mid-sentence and her eyes popped out of her head as she began making ecstatic grunting noises. I popped one in my own mouth and confirmed it: This was something truly special. They did not skimp on the truffle flavor, and you could see specs of it swimming around in the buttery, cheesy, sweet sauce that coated the raviolis, perfectly complementing the truffles' earthy nuttiness without overpowering it. This was seriously good "wow" food, and I spent the rest of the meal defending my plate from intruding forks.
There's lots of mediocre Italian restaurants in the New Haven area, and a few good ones, but it's rare to find an eatery that serves excellent and unpretentious Italian cuisine. Amato's in New Haven manages it. So does Lucibella's in West Haven. I'm adding Amici to my list, even though I wasn't completely blown away by everything on the menu.
The only downside was slightly spotty service; as often is the case, we were served quickly and efficiently, but then seemed forgotten when it came around to bringing desert and settling up the bill. The problem seemed to originate in the kitchen, but the waitress did not try to pass along blame. read more