You'd think that a well known restaurant like Botin, which is considered one of the oldest in all of Spain would be touristy, you'd be right it is. However, it's also got a mix of locals, and don't let the tourists deter you. This place is fantastic. Rustic is not enough to describe the rickety but charming space Botin resides in. Angular, steep staircases, tight quarters, and a hop skip from Plaza Mayor brings all types here.
First off, the owner is phenomenal. At 11 pm there was a wait.
He looks at me and says Ill see you in 45 min. Doesn't write anything down, doesn't say anything else. We go out and hit up some Jamon as a pre meal and come back 40 min later. Owner sees me, has someone bring us beverages and snacks and then a few min later, we're seated. Can you tell he's been doing this all his life? We are led to a back room that is actually behind the kitchen, which we have to walk through, greeting all the cooks on the way. We're seated with all Spaniards. Was this luck, or did we exude something that told him we were here for serious eating? I know there were a ton of tourists here but not in this room. Score
We're greeted by our server and as it's nearing midnight, and we've already devoured a great deal of various Spanish cured meats beforehand, we had one objective: the roasted suckling pig aka Cochinillo Asado,, which is probably the most famous of their many specialties. Simply roasted in the finest olive oil, herbs, and salt with potatoes, it is unbelievable how tasty this is. I thought, well maybe Ill take some of it back with me as a snack but it was so good that we both finished our portions, and I think we could have eaten more. Now l've had roast pig from many different cultures and this was still revelatory. It is amazing something so simple, done with so much care over hundreds of years, can produce such an amazing culinary experience. If you make your way to the area and are willing to wait through the tourists to get this slice of heaven, it is totally worth it. read more