e were in Warsaw in July for a few nights at the end of a 2 1/2 week vacation in Poland. Having experienced many incredible meals during the trip we wanted to end with a BANG with something truly gob-smacking. We were lucky enough to get a table after someone cancelled their reservation.
The food had a consistent theme of fresh seasonal ingredients and edible flowers, which was quite special. In addition we chose the menu with spirit pairings for each dish. Thank goodness we cabbed it! The meal began with three amuse bouche each one bold and beautiful. Of particular note was a potato "chip" so thin it seemed to split the atom. Served with fermented garlic paste and potato vodka gel. An amazing act of food chemistry, this "chip" was like nothing we've ever had before. It was exquisite!
The next two were just as fascinating: Salted cucumber with watercress and flowers. Nasturtium flowers with marinated cherry, in chocolate "dirt" - the best part about the chocolate is that it was just barely sweetened, letting the cacao really come through.
Before the first course arrived they brought a fascinating selection of breads: the black one is made using hay ash, which you could taste distinctly in a surprisingly pleasant way; caraway seed croissant; sour dough, and white bread. Pretty impressive was the hot pebbles at the bottom of the burlap bag, which kept our bread warm for quite some time!
We'll highlight some of our favourite dishes from the tasting:
The first course gave us another insight into how amazing this dinner was going to be. It was a buttery piece of foie gras served with tomato, verbena flower all in an extraordinarily delicate flavourful apple and rosemary consomme. This came with liqueur made from miniature plum brought from Kazakhstan, unadulterated before fermentation.
Next came a dish that can only be described as sashimi/not-sashimi. It was trout marinated in salt and sugar and cooked at 36 degrees for 20min. The texture of the trout is hard to describe. While it looked raw - like sashimi - the texture leaned away from an uncooked fish. Add to that the penetration of the marinade flavours and you had a truly special dish. The trout was paired with a green pea flower, green pea leaves and puree as well as a sorbet of elderflower and beet root to complement. The dish was served with Golden Rose Liquor, made of macerated golden roses in alcohol.
We were both surprised how delicious zucchini and zucchini flower could be! The tart frozen raspberry caviar was a splendid flavour and texture, smoothed out nicely by goat cheese with some rosemary to add a savoury flavour. Truly marvelous and eye-opening. This was served with our favourite liqueur of the evening, Staripolska. It has strong notes of plum, honey, hazelnut and spices. We loved it so much we hunted down a few bottles and took them back home with us.
Here's a revelation we'll never forget: freeze dried strawberries (with intense flavour and crunchy) covered in mustard powder. That right there is what makes a great chef and humbles us every time. Oh yeah, and there was also a delicious perfectly spiced piece of venison on the plate as well, laying on top of buckwheat in caramelized buttermilk. Did you know you can caramelize buttermilk? We didn't! Finished with delicious freshly foraged chanterelle mushrooms and a sunflower seed purée - this dish displaced the zucchini dish as the highlight of the meal. It was served with Krzeska herbal vodka, but to be truthful this was one course that was so good we hardly paid heed to the spirit.
And now on to what was, and remains, the most daring and unusual dessert we've ever encountered. In fact, the chef described it as "controversial", inspiring either love or hate upon first taste. It's one of those dishes that you really have to taste - it's almost impossible to describe the flavour experiment that's going on. We did love this dish, but even as we ate it we really had to ponder and process what was happening on our taste buds. How can we like something that's confusing us this much? It's important to mention that one of us normally HATES eggplant and yet, here was an eggplant dessert that was pleasant. The eggplant was served in the bitter-sweet cacao powder, sitting amongst plain yoghurt, with freeze dried wild strawberries and marjoram. We had to applaud the chef - inventive? yes! bold? yes! ballsy? absolutely! This will be one dish we'll likely remember for the rest of our lives.
To end this review, we'd like to point out this is the most reasonably priced Michelin Star rated restaurant we've ever eaten at! read more