This was the first time our family had visited Alan Wong's in its new location at The Kahala, in the spot formerly occupied by Hōkū's, though we've enjoyed many celebratory meals at the restaurant's original S. King location. Honestly, I had the best meal I've ever had at this latest incarnation of the restaurant.
1. Location: easy access from the front of the hotel. If you face the hotel entrance from the outside, Alan Wong's is to the right. Go up a few shallow steps, and through its double doors. Just ahead, to the right, a show kitchen, bordered by funky black squiggly-rod pendant lights, allows you to scope out the culinary action. Bonus points for celebrity chef sighting on the evening of our visit: Chef Wong was in the house! The new location feels more spacious and much better-lit than the old S. King location, with stunning views: makai windows look out on the ocean, and the east side windows have a stunning view of Koko Head.
2. Food: Long-time Alan Wong fans will be delighted to know that the menu has not markedly changed. All the old familiar Asian fusion favorites are there, or at least the vast majority of the favorites... Alan Wong's used to offer a terrific Ka`u coffee, served up via French press...alas, no longer on the menu.
Appetizers, shared by our table:
1.Dungeness Crab and Shrimp Cake: my favorite bite of all the appetizers: delectable! Crispy on the outside, all meaty, savory crustacean on the inside, perfectly seasoned.
2.Whole Tomato Salad with Li Hing Mui Ume Dressing: I know this is one of Wong's beloved signature dishes, but I don't care for it. Awkward presentation: tomato plopped onto a pool of heavy, cloying sweet dressing, which although definitely li-hing flavored, arguably detracts from the beautiful tart freshness of a great, perfectly ripened tomato. This particular tomato also tasted like a standard hothouse tomato, however, so perhaps not that much of a flavor loss. But critique aside, our family is split on this dish: it has strong fans and strong detractors. If you've never had the Whole Tomato Salad, it's worth trying, especially if your table is sharing.
3.Ahi Poke Stack: I thought the contrasting flavors and textures were excellent: satiny poke, crackly wonton, mousse-like avocado puree. That being said, another diner felt the poke should've been the star of the show, and that there were too many things going on--the avocado, though delicious, masked the subtle flavors of the poke, and that there was too much wonton pi: California poke bowl syndrome! Some of our party members also commented that the dish was extremely awkward to serve and share, due to its verticality, and thought it'd be better served in a flatter incarnation. Even if you were enjoying it solo, it's inevitable that you'll topple your little tower into sloppy oblivion.
Main entrees/sides:
-Two menu items sadly were not available: the opakapaka and the Ho`okua`aina poi. Mike, our server, offered the option of having the onaga prepared in the opakapaka style: steamed with pork hash and truffle nage.
-Onaga, two ways: Both the opakapaka-style and the ginger-crusted miso vinaigrette - were fabulous, highlighting the goodness of fresh island fish: perfectly cooked, umami-bomb, lick-your-plate delicious.
-Braised Duck: this entree pays homage to Eight Treasure duck, a Chinese nine-course banquet classic: duck braised to fall-off-the-bone tenderness, nage scented with star anise and citrus peel, with a hearty taro-barley-shiitake stuffing. Winner!
-Twice-Cooked Kalbi Style Short Ribs: Be forewarned. If you're ordering this dish, anticipating classic galbi marinade flavors: soy, ginger, honey/sugar, sesame oil, black pepper, onion, and Korean pear, then read the menu carefully, because you might be disappointed, otherwise! The beef was wonderfully tender, accompanied by gorgeous honey-sesame glazed whole carrots, but alas, the gochugaru sauce felt heavy, overpowering, and one-note.
-Roasted garlic parmesan mashed potatoes: tasty, but not exceptionally so. Butter-heavy, it felt too rich to be a good foil for food.
The Coconut: indisputably the perfect showstopping finish to a dinner at Alan Wong's. A dark chocolate shell, flecked with toasted coconut, encases a cornucopia of coconut ice cream, a fan of green Granny Smith apples, seasonal berries, apple banana slices, mint, and a luscious gold waterfall of lilikoi.
Pineapple Shave Ice: refreshing and pretty, with Southeast Asian flavors! Triple layers: lime panna cotta and pandan tapioca, crowned by bright yellow pineapple shave ice, feathered with of baby makrut lime leaves. Though flavors were complementary, the delicate warm subtlety of the vanilla-like pandan in the pearl tapioca was completely obliterated by the assertive acid sweetness of the pineapple shave ice. All in all, if you're looking for a special occasion (price point matters), fine dining experience, and now with a lovely view, Alan Wong's delivers! read more