I've driven by Golden Rice Bowl thousands of times and somehow it has always been a restaurant that…read morehas eluded me. Well no more! I finally made my way to this iconic Calgary Trail North spot that is beloved for dim sum on a Saturday evening and was excited to sample all of their small plates! In fact, the Edmonton Journal named Golden Rice Bowl as the Best/Favourite Dim Sum Restaurant 2020, 2022, and 2023. It was high time that I experienced it for myself!
You'll find Golden Rice Bowl in a strip mall-style plaza that is full of various businesses and yes, if you've been an Edmontonian for any amount of time, you've driven by regularly. The restaurant looks large from the outside with huge red lettering alerting passersby to the dim sum within. The inside is just as expansive, boasting a huge open dining area. I noticed that they have various partitions and the ability to section off parts of the room if needed - likely for private events. As with many Chinese restaurants, you are immediately greeted by a sizable (and very clean!) aquarium filled with beautiful tropical fish. However, I was even more impressed by the aquariums at the very back of the restaurant - these ones filled with live fish and seafood for the kitchen. It doesn't get much fresher than that!
The room is ornate but not overdone. Bright red paint on the walls is accented by golden decor items such as gilded dragons with glowing eyes. The ceiling drips with crystal chandeliers and the space is filled with a sea of tables in various sizes. This is the type of place where large generational families come to gather, sitting around huge round tables with a signature lazy susan in the center of each one.
Once seated we were served a pot of Chinese Tea ($1.50 each) and began to peruse the menu. (No, the tea was not included.) I liked that all of the dishware was matching, from the teapot to the bowls. Golden Rice Bowl is known for their dim sum but they also boast a complete and extensive menu of general Chinese food. There's a lot to choose from! However, on my visit the plan was to stick to the dim sum menu only, which is available all day long (even though it is traditionally eaten as brunch). Originating in the south of China, dim sum features a wide variety of small, bite-sized dishes typically served in steamer baskets or on small plates. It's pretty similar to the Spanish concept of tapas. Many dim sum restaurants use trolley carts to parade their offerings around, however a more modern practice is to provide guests with a checklist menu that you fill out and hand back to your server. Golden Rice Bowl does neither of these things and the server simply writes down your order in typical fashion. The dim sum menu is two pages long and offers over fifty items! Some of the dishes were larger, family-style plates which makes sense to round out the meal especially at dinnertime. The only issue is that there are no prices listed on the dim sum menu so you sort of just have to hope for the best?
Our feast began with an order of Wor Wonton Soup ($29.95). At first we assumed the this would be served as single servings but the server pointed out that it would come as one big soup to share. Very glad that he clarified this! I was very impressed by our gracious and attentive server who portioned the bowls of soup for each of us at our table. Giant in size, this was much more than a basic wonton soup with a couple of dumplings floating around! This flavourful version was packed full with big pieces of chicken, pork, and shrimp. Plus tons of vegetables, and yes, of course wonton dumplings containing a meaty filling. Every ingredient was bright and fresh and I was glad to get some veggies into the meal because dim sum can be quite a "brown dinner."
The other larger dish that we ordered was the Ginger Beef ($29.95), a dish invented in Calgary with an interesting history. Certainly not traditional, ginger beef is a quintessential Canadian Chinese dish that was invented in the 1970s. Deep fried strips of beef are coated in a dark, sweet sauce and it's quite delicious. The tanginess of the sauce is so addictive and the texture of the beef is satisfying. The version at GRB is quite good, however the best ginger beef that I've ever tasted was at Emerald Garden Restaurant in Calgary.
Then it was time for the actual dim sum! Little plates incoming!!
We really wanted to try the Pan Fried Taro Root with Pork Sausage but were unfortunately informed that they did not have any available. Our server suggested the Pan Fried Chinese Turnip with Pork Sausage ($7.95) instead, which did look somewhat similar. (The fact that the dim sum menu shows images of every item is very helpful!) Unfortunately, this turned out to be the least favourite dish of the night just because the texture was really challenging. These cakes were extremely soft and mushy. I actually did enjoy the flavour of the turnip and sausage but the mushiness was a bit too difficult to get around.