Located on the bustling yet gritty Hennessy Road is Ra Cha Moo Yang, a tiny Thai eatery that easily gets lost in the shuffle of the other dodgy / seedy bizes in Wanchai. To call it a dive would be putting it lightly, with a setup that is perfect for people on the go but just enough seating to accommodate several parties of 1 or 2 at the most. The feel is distinctly SE Asian, almost reminiscent of the street side Thai eateries in Bangkok, with just as much grit and clustered big city feel.
Despite the little attention it receives, the interior would suggest this place has been around for a long time. Articles from the 80s are taped to the wall, faded decor pieces from Thailand have lost their color due to age and sun damage, and the staff / crew is a mix of old Thai ladies who speak just enough Canto to keep locals in check. They're a nice bunch, but the food is the real draw.
Their version of a pad thai reminds me of something I'd find back in the states, albeit drastically greasier and messier. Shallots and peanuts are dusted across some overcooked bits of egg and a mesh of noodles. It is tasty but requires a lot of lime to really bring out any flavor. Their tom yum soup seems to be made occasionally (i.e. on a menu but not available each day), but was full of flavor despite having such a murky color.
The real standout is their namesake, the moo yang, i.e. grilled pork neck. Their stay skewers on display may look like they've been sitting there all night, but it was likely made fresh earlier that day. A little peanut sauce and sweet hoisin make for great dipping, but I like devouring it sans any condiments. They have an entire glass case, viewable from the street and sell them for anywhere from $15-28 a piece.
I'm also really impressed with their moo ping (roast pork) standalone dish. Tender chunks of pork with a crispy exterior, somewhat similar to Filipino lechon but without the liver sauce. The danger with a lot of their crispy pork products is there is a lot more fat than meat half the time, which also bodes true for their banana leaf wrapped stuffed sticky rice. Thai style tamales were more disappointing than they were tasty. If dining in, shoot for a grilled fish but for folks on the go -- pork skewers are the way to go.
Ra Cha Moo Yang is cash only. Don't come here in a group and don't expect much in the realm of Northern Thai cuisine. Their version is slightly catered to the local palate, but there is a lot to be appreciated with the items they do well with (mainly pork related). read more