On Thursday evening, June 21, 2018, Chef Rebecca Wilcomb, chef de cuisine of Herbsaint restaurant in New Orleans, and winner of the 2017 James Beard Foundation award for best chef, South, presented a lovely dinner infused with influences of her Italian heritage and her New Orleans home for the last ten years. Alabama Chanin, and Friends of the Cafe Dinners, are the brainchild of Natalie Chanin who is a rock star in fashion design and environmental causes related to the fashion and textile industries. These events benefit the Southern Foodways Alliance based at the University of Mississippi.
Guests were greeted with a Summer Solstice cocktail to start featuring peach, mint and prosecco. An outstanding array of appetizers included toasted crab melts, marinated steak bites with anchovy and olives whose seasoning and taste brought to mind a New Orleans muffuletta influence, wonderfully seasoned grilled shrimp spiedini (on skewers), and chickpea fritters with caponata (a cooked eggplant salad garnish) .
What made Chef Wilcomb's meal special was the sense that she was sharing a personal part of her heritage through the food she served this night. Like a great deal of Italian food, the highlight was on the ingredients, prepared simply and seasoned to perfection. The first course was a simple but I'm sure labor intensive bowl of chicken tortellini in a rich broth. The dish was dedicated to her Grandmother, Giannina, and was the first time she had ever served it outside a family setting.
The rest of the meal was served family style. Entrees included roasted Bluewater Creek Farm pork belly and Open Blue Cobia with calabrian chilies. Cobia is a deep water fish being farm raised in ocean ponds off the coast of Panama. The fish was expertly cooked and the Italian calabrian chilies added a touch of heat without overpowering. A simple and very enjoyable Italian rice salad featured mortadella, cheese, capers and a light Italian dressing- another of the chef's family recipes. Marinated lunchbox peppers were surprisingly sweet and well seasoned but looked alarmingly similar to Habanero peppers. A nice New Orleans influenced dish of charred Okra with tomatoes was delicious and complimented the equally delicious sauteed Italian Porcini mushrooms.
An assortment of hand pies from summer fruits including blueberry, peach, fig and others I may have missed, concluded the meal. While the meal was delicious and well done, the hand pies were extraordinary. Served with whipped cream, the pies were served warm and brought oohs and aahs universally around the table.
Once again, Anne Ryan Cavin as wine steward did a wonderful job selecting wines and providing the provenance of each to enhance the dining experience. A Willamette Valley, Oregon, Brooks Pinot Noir Rose - 2017 was the first course wine and my personal favorite for the evening as well as others at our table. It was a delightful rose bursting with fruit flavors and a delicious taste. A Chateau de la Selve- Petit Selve- 2017, a red blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre grapes from the Rhone Valley of France was served with the main course. With desert was a sparkling rose Alma Negra- Brut Nature from Argentina. Made from both Malbec and Pinot Noir grapes, it was a pleasant wine, crisp, with a hint of sweetness.
Chef Ray Nichols and the staff of Alabama Chanin provided support for this outstanding dining experience with smooth, efficient and impeccable service. As always, Natalie Chanin was a charming and wonderful hostess whose sense of style and attention to detail is evident in every event. read more