You can't talk about Vietnamese food in Halifax for long without someone bringing up the delicious…read moresandwiches and other dishes at Banh Mi A&B on Quinpool, and I finally made my way there in the summer to see what the fuss was about.
Arriving in the thick of the dinner rush on a Thursday, the small restaurant was nearly full, but since I was dining solo, I was able to grab a seat by the window. It has a "counter service" kind of vibe, but it is actually table service, and I was seen to quickly after I sat down.
Even though banh mi is their namesake dish, I was impressed with the variety of banh mi options, with creative flavour profiles and a wide assortment of proteins, including lemongrass grilled pork, garlic and lime chicken, sate shrimp with kimchi, and teriyaki tofu and mushroom just to name a few. I'm no banh mi scholar, but I feel like A&B's kitchen is breaking out of the mould a bit and flexing their creative muscles, which I appreciate. The menu doesn't stop there though, as there's several each of appetizers and other familiar Vietnamese mains (bun cha, pho, bun bo hue).
My first time here *had* to be banh mi though, so I went for the pork meatballs banh mi, with the Viet slaw as the side in my combo. A&B's banh mi unfortunately doesn't come with paté by default, and I didn't notice that in addition to getting it for "free" if you take it as your side, you can have it added onto your sandwich for $1.50. Oh well, next time!
My food came out quickly, and soon I was chowing down with the stunning view of Quinpool Centre, which despite being a visual blight on a full city block in the West End's main commercial district, it has impressively managed to avoid any sort of beautification from the Halifax Mural Festival for four years straight. Bravo, commercial real estate owners, bravo *insert sarcastic clapping*
I digress though.
Let's not mess around here - the fuss about Banh Mi A&B is absolutely deserved. The bread is definitely the star, as it should be in any truly great sandwich. The shatteringly crisp exterior leads to a dense, pleasantly chewy crumb that supports the delicious fillings within. The pork meatballs had a nice grainy texture that suggested they weren't just coming out of a Sysco freezer bag, and were wonderfully tender and moist, with a lightly herbaceous note to them. The usual banh mi fillings of pickled daikon and carrot, cucumber and cilantro added the texture, bright flavours and colours that are a signature of Vietnamese cuisine.
The Viet slaw carried on this tradition with shredded cabbage, carrot, and onion with a peanut crumble and a dressing that enlivens your taste buds with a balanced mix of sweetness, acidity and hints of umami.
It was too late in the day for me to grab a Vietnamese coffee, but a peach iced tea was just the right amount of sweet and fruity, without being cloying and dessert-like; just a refreshing drink on a humid summer day!
My next time at BMAB had me trying another Vietnamese classic - their pho. Unlike the multitude of banh mi options, there's only one beef pho to choose from, and you know what? I'm cool with that. They've got their specialty, and I respect that!
It was another busy Thursday evening, but I received my food in good time nonetheless.
The pho comes with beef meatball and slices of brisket; I know squishy textures are a "thing" in Asian cuisine, but I grew up with mediocre, from-frozen meatballs, and they're just not *my* thing. The brisket, on the other hand, was next level compared to A&B's peers; the ultra-tender, thinly-sliced pieces of brisket were deliberately cut to have a layer of fat on top of the meat; evenly distributed on all the slices, it added an unctuous texture without having any overly fatty pieces that were hard to chew. I see you, A&B's prep cook!
The highlight of any good soup is the broth, and A&B's really stood out here as well. It had a hearty beefiness, with prominent herbal notes and a velvety smooth mouthfeel, and it was so good that I didn't bother adding any sauces to it!
Noodles and accoutrements were all solid standards, but the brisket and broth sealed the deal for this top tier pho.
I pulled the trigger on a Vietnamese iced coffee, and true to form it was sweet, smooth and had a great punch of slowly steeped coffee.
Banh Mi A&B rightly deserves all the praise it gets, from its fantastic namesake sandwiches to solid execution across the menu, that's tied together with friendly, attentive service. It's got the feel of a neighbourhood spot, but it's truly destination worthy for some of the best Vietnamese food in the city.