Since moving to Portland about five years ago I had been wanting to go to Republica for a while. I…read moreavoided it because Republica only offered a tasting menu and there was always some ingredient or dish on the tasting menu that wasn't for me. Then one day a few months ago I was walking by and saw that they are open for brunch. And that dishes are under $20 for the most part. Cool, I'm in!
It didn't disappoint. The thing that stands out to me most about Republica is that they just genuinely give a shit, and that really makes me happy. I think it's exemplified well by this carrot dish I posted a picture of. The owner explained to me how much goes into it: salt it, rest, roast, wait, soak in butter, wait 48 hours, do something else -- I don't remember exactly, but it's definitely a process.
Carrots for brunch seemed odd to me at first but the menu sold me. There is a different menu each week and it includes something journal entry-like; something that explains the thought process behind the dishes that were selected. The owner seemed excited about the carrots, and I like to lean into dishes that the chefs are excited about, so I went with it, and it was great: textures, flavors, colors -- it all just worked well.
It's not just the carrot dish of course. It feels like they take pride in everything they do and hit on a lot of small details. Example: they use avocado leaves when they cook the beans, similar to how you might use a bay leaf. It does something to the texture, breaking it down and making it easier to digest. I'm usually not much of a bean person -- I'm ok with them as a compliment to a dish but in isolation I find them too mealy and bland -- but these beans were actually really great. They were properly seasoned, had a nice hint of spice, and had a sort of rich, buttery mouthfeel.
To be constructive, I will say that I didn't enjoy the mole negro. The owner did explain how it's meant to have a sort of charred flavor and shouldn't be overly sweet. I appreciate pursuing a vision, but I found the charred flavor to be pretty strong and unpleasant. It also wasn't really balanced by other flavors; the char was basically the only thing that came through for me. Maybe you need to be the type of person who enjoys black coffee to enjoy the mole negro. I don't like my coffee black.
Overall, I think Republica is a fantastic place and would recommend it. The food is good, it's novel and creative, I think it's a great value at the price point it's served at, the ambiance is nice, wait staff courteous, and, my personal favorite -- there's an undeniable sense of craftsmanship. I'm excited to continue visiting.