We really enjoyed the food at Saltbox Seafood Joint. I knew this place was popular and now I know firsthand why. Simply put, for fried seafood and chowder, this place is worth checking out.
During our visit, at the back of the restaurant, there was a framed certificate and medal from the James Beard Awards 2022. "Elects Ricky Moore, Saltbox Seafood Joint, Durham, NC for Restaurant Chef Awards, Best Chef: Southeast." Pretty cool. Moore is the founder-owner and, according to Saltbox's logo, established the business in 2012.
I didn't know Saltbox previously had two locations. The original location in downtown Durham closed in August 2021. I thought that was the only location. It was takeout and outdoor seating only, kind of like a food truck. However, I happened to spot this second location while on the way to nearby Q Shack and I noticed it had a dining room. That's when I knew I had to come here (I prefer dining indoors). I later learned this location opened in December 2017. I noticed a Saltbox food truck parked in the back as well.
Saltbox's menu changes daily "depending on what has been caught by North Carolina fisherfolk." When we visited, there were nine kinds of fish and shellfish on the blackboard menus: spicy mahi, trout, shrimp, catfish, bay scallops, flounder, oysters, salmon, and red snapper. These were served two ways: (1) in rolls garnished with slaw for $13-17 each and (2) as plates served with slaw and fried potatoes for $16-23 each. There was also a 10th item, whole black bass, offered as a plate only ($19). There were only four sides: collards, "Hush Honeys®" (apparently, a registered trademark), slaw, and fried potatoes plus "chowda" ($10). For drinks, they have a Pepsi fountain machine in the back and also serve a limited selection of beer, wine, and cider ($6-13 each). Overall, a simple and straightforward menu.
This is a counter-service spot. Whether you dine in or take out, all food is served in disposable boxes with cheap, flimsy plastic utensils. Higher-quality utensils would work better with the food served. For example, I felt like my fork might break on both the fish and hush puppies. You get your own drink and bus your own table.
Here's what we got:
* Catfish Plate with slaw and fried potatoes ($18)
* Red Snapper Plate with slaw and fried potatoes ($20)
* Chowda ($10)
* Collards ($4)
* Hush Honeys ($4)
* Ponysaurus Pilsner beer ($6)
This meal for two totaled $81.57 after 7.5% sales tax, 4.0% "S Fee," and tip. I tipped 18% since there was no sit-down service. I usually don't point this out in my reviews, but I thought this was a little expensive for casual fried seafood. That said, I understand there are costs to run a business and seafood isn't cheap, and I do think there is a higher quality to Saltbox's ingredients. Also, in addition to quality, Saltbox brought the quantity. Each plate came with plenty of fish meat, and the chowda and sides weren't small. So, I don't think we overpaid.
We ordered both the catfish and red snapper fried. I believe all items can be fried, but only some can be grilled (described as "spice griddled" here). I love fried catfish and Saltbox does it great. It was just really flavorful and crispy, and well-seasoned. Tender and meaty too. I could eat it all day. The same can be said about the red snapper. The snapper was meatier, but did have a tougher, less appetizing texture to me (which I expected). Saltbox uses a different seasoning/spice blend than I'm used to on fried fish. It gives their fried fish a subtly unique flavor. Old Bay? Lawry's? I have no idea.
The sauces - tartar, cocktail, mustard - are a must. They were all terrific. I believe they're all homemade.
We liked Saltbox's coleslaw. It's not the creamy, mayo-based kind and it's not the vinegar-based kind that you might see in a lot of parts of North Carolina (red slaw). The menu describes it as "shredded cabbage, vegetables, herbs & citrus dressing." Ours was fresh, crunchy, and tasty. The fried potatoes were good too. They are sliced potatoes cooked with green peppers and white onions. Yummy.
My wife and I love clam chowder. Saltbox's "chowda" was more than clams. It had clams, shrimp, and maybe even crabmeat too. Again, like the slaw, the chowda wasn't creamy, but a different take. Whatever it was, it was really buttery and delicious. The broth was addictive. I highly recommend the chowda.
The collards and Hush Honeys (hush puppies) were solid as well. The collards had great flavor, but they were also a little too salty. The Hush Honeys were hush puppies with honey. I mentioned Q Shack above. Coincidentally, I think Q Shack has the best hush puppies in Chapel Hill-Durham. If I had to nitpick, Saltbox's hush puppies were a little too dense for me, but still, solid.
Ponysaurus beer is local to Durham. I liked the pilsner.
Service was great.
The spot where the original Saltbox was, at 608 N Mangum St (https://www.yelp.com/biz/saltbox-seafood-joint-durham), is now townhomes. read more