Everyone seems to talk so highly of the Rusty Moose. I think it might be thanks to those giant beers they serve, because the food I tried was not as representative of Spokane as you might expect for being less than five minutes from the airport.
You can imagine the type of decor you will encounter at a place named Rusty Moose - walking into the restaurant, I was reminded of Twin Peaks, and its canonical location a couple of hours north of Spokane. Yes, the Pacific Northwest is here, and it threw up all over the Rusty Moose. It's not a bad thing, though, and I admire the follow-through. Another reviewer mentioned the propensity for hanging crap on the walls was reminiscent of one of those chain American restaurants - something that occurred to me as I began to peruse the menu.
The restaurant has a lot to offer - steak, seafood, ribs, pasta, sandwiches, burgers, pizzas, and miscellaneous entrées, appetizers, and salads. It's great to want to please a wide audience, and it's also cool if you can cook each of these dozens of items well, but from my experience, the larger the menu, the more "jack of all trades, master of none" the place becomes.
Our party's first example of this was when we asked the server if the clam chowder was Manhattan or New England. His response was "the white one." Not a good sign, though neither was the gravy-like consistency of the resulting stew. I was not one to partake in the tasting, though those who did had middling responses to it.
An order of the Loon Nachos was ordered. Personally, I don't get the appeal of the "piled high" nachos - all the chips in the middle are soggy and all the outside chips miss out on half of the toppings, not that you can get a little bit of everything on a chip anyway. This is hardly Rusty Moose's fault, though, and the giant pile of warm tortilla chips, marinated (though mostly textureless) chicken, Pace-quality salsa, cheese, olives, jalapeno slices, guacamole, and sour cream certainly found homes in each of the diner's bellies.
In chosing my main course online before my visit, I was decided on the Rusty Burger. A challenger approached by way of the special - a trio of Kobe beef sliders topped with sweated onions and a tarragon aioli. I ultimately decided on the latter due to the increased culinary challenge of the sliders. That, and the burger in the picture on the menu looked a little closer to 1/3 of a pound than I would have liked for $10.
Between the onions and the tarragon aioli, I was expecting something a little more flavorful than I received. Particularly the onions - they looked like part of a dark, browned onion that should be golden brown and delicious, but after tasting, some more time in the fat seemed evident. I wasn't getting much by way of tarragon, either. Both of these missteps could have been forgiven if it wasn't for the meat, which was cooked several steps beyond well done, giving the burgers a taste of char and not much else. I might as well have been eating a lesser cut of meat, because I couldn't taste it either way.
The overcooking of the meat was coincidentally incongruous with what happened to another member of our party, who decided to order the fillet, and prefers his meat well done. Everyone at the table chided his heinous treatment of the meat and he relented to a paltry medium well cooking. What he received was cooked so obviously to a medium rare that is was slighting.
Now, there's several things we could assume with this. The first, is that there was a miscommunication between the server and cook. The second, more cynical manner of thinking is that someone on the line decided that we should not be eating a fillet cooked to medium well, and changed it for him. I am definitely of the opinion that meat cooked past medium rare is just wrong, but I am also of the opinion that if I'm paying $30 for a piece of meat, I can do whatever I want with it, whether it be cooked to medium well, shoved up my nose, or given to the Log Lady. Regardless, we couldn't really send it back because other people at the table offered to take the rest of the steak, myself included, for which I traded the last of my charred sliders. It was a decent piece of meat, but that's not really the point.
I'm willing to give Rusty Moose the benefit of the doubt and chalk up the undercooking of the steak to a miscommunication, though that doesn't leave us with any less of a bad taste in our mouth. It does, however, pair well with the mediocre taste in our mouths from the rest of the food. I respect any chef that makes an effort to share his culinary view of the world outside of the influence from chain restaurants, but the only way Rusty Moose's gum is going to come back into style is if they dramatically scaled back both the menu selection and the prices for those items.
Not surprisingly, they did make a damn good cup of coffee. read more