Our first visit was far from perfect, featuring a few culinary mistakes (like burnt goose liver) and some inexplicable odd behaviour from the head of service (like our reservation being changed without our approval). However, the restaurant has real potential, because Tobias Funke is an excellent chef. It's that simple. They were struggling with an influx of new guests they received due to Gault Millau's award, but they have reinforced the kitchen with a dedicated pastry chef, so you might have a better, more consistent experience than we did. Nobody's perfect, so we don't hold it against them.
The food is all you would expect of a new gourmet restaurant headed by an excellent chef: Excellent bread and amuse bouches, creative compositions and big flavours. If you're looking to impress, then this is an excellent. The gourmet part of the restaurant is rather small, even though the tables are quite small, too.
All of his PR wouldn't let you know that he has a knack for good pastry. His pre-dessert, an orange variation, is absolutely inspired. And his chocolate variation is truly excellent, one of the best showcases of Felchlin's ultra-luxurious Bolivian criollo Grand Cru couverture I've eaten so far. Beautiful presentation.
Insider's tips: You can order from both menus if you eat in the bistro. The restaurant has a menu just for children. All food for the kids (and adults), from the ketchup to the french fries, is home-made and fresh, free from all artificial preservatives and flavor enhancers.
For a detailed German photo report, including an interview with head chef Tobias Funke, please visit:
http://dessertblog.ch/2010/12/funkes-obstgarten-in-freienbach/ read more