Aldeia is a one-of-a-kind experience. It's hidden inside the Portuguese Cultural Center, a building…read morethat seems equal parts municipal office and YMCA. As Dana mentioned, when you walk in the building, you will need to turn left and walk past the lively bar (where there will likely be a round football game on TV), before you arrive at Aldeia. Far more subdued than its neighbor on our weekend visit, with well spaced tables draped with white tablecloths, the overall effect is of eating at your avó's after Sunday mass, when important company has been invited over: homey, but special occasiony.
Aldeia features simple, straightforward Portuguese standards. There are a lot of grilled options and seafood options, a whole section for bacalhau preparations. (Menu here: https://www.portugueseculturalcenter.org/restaurantmenu)
For those who are unused to the practice in Portugal and many other parts of Europe, be aware that there is a couvert -- bread and olives brought out automatically at the start of the meal, for which there is an extra charge. You can refuse it as we did at first. (I hate when our littles fill up on bread and butter and eat nothing else during the meal.) But when the appetizers we ordered (e.g. chouriço) came without the described bread, we relented and asked for the couvert. I was mildly irked at being strong armed into oredering it at first, but those slightly spicy black olives were good enough that I couldn't stay mad for long.
We shared a few appetizers:
- Chouriço assado - chouriço flambe ("chouriço served on fire with bread") -- Flames are always a hit with the littles and they enjoyed the fat, snappy-skinned, smokey sausage, broiled to taste. The chouriço was chunkier than many commercial versions, conceivably house made. (We've had similar from Erika Nakamura and Jocelyn Guest.)
- Frango à passarinho ("fried chicken") -- Undersalted by our standards, not noticeably seasoned, but the chicken was admirably moist, quickly fried at high heat. We are more accustomed to the Brazilian version of this dish and missed the accompaniment of lime and cilantro.
- Caldo verde -- a version where a small amount of potato or other starch had been completely pureed into the soup with a small amount of kale and a few bits of chopped chouriço. This was a little too much like Knorr's for my tastes. I personally prefer versions where potato and kale have a less wimpy presence.
- Salada de polvo ("octopus, onions, peppers and herbs") -- I am a sucker for this dish (no pun intended) and loved the roughly chopped versions I had at humble seaside cafes in the Azores especially. This version was a elevated version with finely minced onions and peppers, a good amount of olive oil, and delicate slivers of slippery-skinned polvo playing hide and seek in this suspension.
- Robalo escalado (grelhado, alho e azeite, vegetais e batatas cozidas) -- The fish was on the smaller side, but fresh and impeccably grilled. Vegetables -- a few broccoli florets, batons of carrot, and potatoes -- were served boiled. It's not my favorite treatment, but they were made far more palatable with the dressing of minced garlic still pale from a quick sautee in oil.
- Frango grelhado ("grilled chicken, rice and fries OR small salad and vegetables of the season") -- The Pardner's good angel didn't stand a chance against the prospect of rice AND fries, but sadly, when I tasted it, the rice was a bit hard and the fries soggy, undersalted, and -- oh cardinal sin! -- not served with ketchup. :) The chicken preparation again demonstrated some admirable culinary skills: it was wonderfully moist despite being sliced thin and grilled. But again, the preparation was underseasoned and undersalted for our personal tastes.
Another note on authenticity: The service is very....... relaxed, as it is in the Azores and the homeland. We were the only diners in the establishment for some time, but there were long, long lags in service. I have to speculate that our server may have been working the bar room as well given how hard it was to flag him down. (He was quite nice whenever we succeeded in doing so.) It's a shame that I'm an impatient New Yorker. I try to relax into the wait, but I'm not sure I can entirely embrace that in this lifetime.