4.5
As much as I thought I'd spend my time in Rome reviewing landmarks and monuments, I have to say: it's all about the food. Yes, culture can be picked up in any number of ways and odds are there are plenty of reviews you can read about the Pantheon* and Spanish Steps**. What I find most useful is talking about what you're doing when you're not standing in line to take the photo you've seen your friends post on Instagram.
I'm fortunate to have a very good friend who lives in Rome and she took me to all sorts of fantastic local haunts I wouldn't have discovered on my own. One of these was Osteria di Monteverde. I came to Rome (well, to Italy) to eat all the food and that's what I set out to do. Understanding the difference between true Italian food and Americanized Italian food (even when eating at traditional Italian restaurants stateside) was a true revelation. I enjoy Italian food but I'd never really had it. Eating Italian food in Italy was a treasure. Not only were the flavors much more pronounced, the textures were different... the portions were different... the seasonings were different... I didn't know Italian food until i came to Italy. And, eating at Osteria di Monteverde taught me a lot.
First off, I was the only American I noticed in the (tiny) restaurant. I didn't hear American English nor did I notice any fatties (just keeping it real, y'all). Since my friend is Italian, I let her do all the heavy lifting when it came to communicating and ordering. I was just there to eat, drink and serve as eye candy. You know, the reg. Our meal began with an amuse bouche of cheese, olive oil and anchovy. It was divine. That's when you know you're somewhere special: when something that sounds mundane can excite the senses and make you anticipate a wonderful meal. This was followed by an appetizer (first course) of a fish tartare that knocked my socks off. 'twas not tuna but it was a similar fish... one that I hadn't had before nor can I pronounce. I wrestled with a few main entree options but ultimately decided on a special: spaghetti with clams, green tomatoes served in a green tomato espuma. This was entirely ridiculous. The clams were unlike most of what I'd had in the states. They made me rethink their status (in my mind) as the bootleg bivalve. The spaghetti was wonderfully al dente (I get it) and the green tomato gave the dish a spice and visual element that made it fun to eat. The espuma, however, took things to another level. I've never been one for foams or reductions but to encounter the espuma in, what I took as, a rustic osteria what a pleasant surprise and one that showcased the depth of the kitchen. My friend ended her meal with tiramisu. I ended mine with more wine (when in Rome... I FINALLY GET TO SAY IT FOR REAL***).
Even after all that food, I wasn't full in the least. It really is all about the ingredients. I wished we ate better in the States. But that was worry for another day. This evening was all about wonderful company, incredible food, attentive service (with a smile), and being firmly present in the moment. Rome, I dig you.
*The hole in the middle is something to witness. Far beyond my interest of how it was built (aliens. Super heroes. There's no other explanation.), I couldn't wrap my mind around what happens when it rains. After going inside and taking the requisite photos, it's all about hanging out outside and absorbing the people watching and human element.
** I think many Americans come here because of Roman Holiday. There's really nothing special to go out of your way for when visiting the steps. The steps are, however, close to a bunch of high end shops so it can be a lucky coincidence that a trip to visit a landmark turns into one of retail therapy. Any chance I get to cement the fact that the world is my catwalk, I take.
***Expect more of this. read more