Mott St. is the more casual small plates concept from the Edward Kim and the Ruxbin team with the intention of highlighted Asian street food. For those of you who haven't been, I'm not sure you can get more bang for your buck at Ruxbin - one of the better meals you'll get in the city, especially for the price (plus it's BYOB). While Ruxbin focuses more on introducing hints of Asian ingredients and flavors into mostly French and American dishes, Mott St. turns the tables, stressing the stronger Asian flavors, toned down just a bit for the Western palate.
The menu here is divided into a veggies/salad, a fish/seafood, and a meat section, with a smaller rolls/dumpling section, and a few soups/stews. Add in a good beer selection, and an intriguing mix of cocktails, and you've got some tough decisions to make. Thankfully, as usual, we came hungry, and were able to get a pretty good sample of the menu. For a drink, I started with "A Snowball's Chance", a refreshing cocktail that combines two sweet drinks, a rum and sake, adds a splash of lemon, with the kicker - tapioca balls and an oversized straw, bubble tea style. Not quite what I was expecting, but the drink was particularly refreshing, and I can see it being a hit in the summer, despite the name.
Against the recommendations of our waiter, we started with the shrimp and kohlrabi salad. Immediately, we knew Ed Kim wasn't holding back any punches when he devised this menu. The kohlrabi was julienned, giving a nice watery, crisp texture to the salad, but the candied shrimp had a deep dried fishy taste that was intense and augmented by a touch of fish sauce - the flavor profile was balanced a bit by scattered peanuts and a bit of citrus. In the end, still a very strong taste, and while it probably isn't for everyone, it is exactly what we were looking for.
Our second dish, the kimchi and oaxaca spring rolls, were essentially kimchi empanadas. A nice thick, fried dumpling crust surrounded a filling of kimchi that was well textured, but just a bit muted on spice. The oaxaca cheese stuck to the sides and almost melded to the dough to add some excellent texture. The chimichurri creme-fraiche sauce on the side was a bit bland, and probably not needed.
The wings were one of the highlights of the night. These were full-size wings with both wing and drumette attached, marinated in a deep soy-glaze with a great sweetness and a perfect dash of chili flake to add just a bit of kick to the dish. The wings were perfectly fried - a crispy, flavorful skin to bite into with a piping hot, tender meaty cooked inside. Like the dumpling, the supporting tzatziki sauce was overkill, not really adding anything to the dish.
Next up was the second star of the night - the crab brain fried rice. Now the "brains" aren't exactly the brains, but call them what you will - brains, guts, tomalley (not tamale!) - they are the innards of the crab and when you mix them with rice, it gives an awesome creamy texture to the rice, while adding a deep umami taste. This version takes that a step further, frying the rice and other ingredients, giving the dish a fantastic textural complexity. The chinese sausage adds a bit of flavor, and a dash of lime provides a nice finishing touch. Served in a bowl that is deceptively large, the fried rice is almost a must-order if you make the trek to Mott St.
For the final dish of the evening, we ordered the pork jowl, a spicy, near spot on version of dwaejibulgogi, a spicy pork Korean BBQ dish. Served with a crispy tofu, the pork had a pretty decent slow kick, but was a bit overcooked and in the end, a small smudge on what was otherwise a stellar meal.
So, as stuffed as we were, Sara is apparently a sucker for tres leches cake, so we *had* to order dessert. The cake itself had a pretty good texture for tres leches, and a nice sweetness emparted by the coconut milk. The sweetness however, was counteracted by an underlying saltiness that provided a nice balance. In the end, a nice bonus as we by no means needed anything more after our dinner.
In summary, Mott St. is another solid venture by the Ruxbin team. Because of the atmosphere, the type of food, and the lack of BYOB, you don't feel like your'e getting the steal of a deal I often do when I eat at Ruxbin, but it's not overly expensive either. The strong Asian flavors are not for everyone - if you're not used to or not expecting these, they can overwhelm you, but if you have a pretty easy palate, then more than likely you'll be pleased with Mott Street.
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