Focus. Commitment. Dedication. Grit. These are words we often associate with competitive athletics…read moreor high stakes business, not the elegant and refined world of fine wine. Maybe we still recall these words being thrown in our faces by angry parents or exasperated teachers who instructed us to invest our time wisely in something of lasting value rather than fritter it away on short-term, sometimes even self-destructive, thrills.
When many of us set off on wine tasting adventures, we don't want to be reminded of how much hard work went into the contents of each glass, or to be told a true but humbling story of how it took decades of work digging, grafting, pruning, and pressing before the secrets of the vine begin to unveil themselves and the critics finally began to take notice. Why not surround oneself with light-hearted romance instead? Why not fantasize, as Robert Mondavi and his second wife, Margrit, once encouraged wine drinkers to do, about the pleasures of the Good Life in pleasure-soaked places like Napa?
Well, for one, as the folks here at Drew might tell you if you asked them directly about it, all of those things are exaggerations and outright lies, even if some of them might be well intentioned. Wine making is artful, to be sure, but it's not art. It's work, and lots of it. This doesn't make the contents of the glass any less pleasurable and worthwhile. In fact, the wine takes on more meaning and seems more expressive if you sense how much inspired effort went into its production, without actually having to do all that hard work yourself.
Drew wines are like that. They are crafted primarily from higher elevation vineyards above Anderson Valley with complex, uplifted seabed soils and cooling ocean breezes. They are grown from cuttings selected from high-quality heritage vineyards in California, from so-called suitcase clones smuggled in from Europe, or from clones rigorously selected and certified by viticultural experts at UC-Davis. The vineyards are tended in ways that minimize their impact on the environment using organic and no-till methods, and the wines are made using a similar set of hands-on but non-invasive techniques that are designed to showcase the quality of harvested fruit and unique mineral content of the soils in which they were cultivated.
The resulting wines are not cult collectibles that command mind-bindingly high prices that only the elite can afford. Instead, they are priced accessibly given the production and labor costs involved and open to all who arrange ahead of time for $15 tastings at Drew's modest but attractively styled space in the Madrones resort, restaurant, and shopping complex between the small Anderson Valley towns of Boonville and Philo.
Drew is a tiny independent operation that relies on club memberships, restaurant sales, and word-of-mouth recommendations to stay viable. In a wine world largely controlled by well capitalized conglomerates like Constellation, Gallo, Jackson Family Wines, and LVMH (Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton), on the one hand, or by wealthy vineyard and winery owners, on the other, it is important to remember that the majority of wine industry professionals, like those who run Drew, have dedicated years of their lives to improving wine quality and catering to the needs of a diversifying wine enthusiast public. They don't set out to shape the wine buying habits of the masses or try to place their limited annual production of wines at Costco or Trader Joe's in the sub-$20 price range. Their goals are different and far more ambitious.
When you taste a Drew Chardonnay, Pinot, Syrah, or Rhone varietal blend, they don't assault your senses or flaunt their abundant attributes, but they aren't lean, austere, or stingy wines, either. They have multiple facets to their highly individualized personalities. They are models of poise, precision, balance, structure, and restraint. And they taste, smell, and feel the way that site-specific grape varietals are supposed to do if tended properly while they grow in the ground, are harvested from the vine, and then left to ferment and age in the cellar until they are ready for release.
Like all good and lasting relationships, Drew wines likely will take time to get to know well. But if they make a connection with you, as a wine drinker, it will also be immediate, intense, and obvious, like love at first sight. You will never know if you don't visit. Will you take that risk? My advice? Roll those dice. Fork over the $15. It may change the way you think about wine. If not, there is always Long Meadow Ranch's tasting room right next door with a Napa Valley wine or two with which to comfort you.
