Lately I have been on a weird search for Japanese ramen. It's one food that I have found that just isn't replicated here in the States with any degree of talent, or particularly well for that matter. All of the problems that ramen has here in the States boils down to one thing: the broth. I went to Manpaku hoping that it was going to bring the ramen hard to the dome when it came to this particular cornerstone of Japanese food.
I moved back from Japan Fall last year, 2010, so my point of reference is as that. I have had ramen from the country that does it well, and quite frequently. It's important to note that Manpaku is not in a restaurant from Japan. It is a restaurant in Berkeley, CA USA that does Japanese food. They make no claims about importing product, ingredients, chefs or anything from Japan. I went in there with these realistic expectations and was immediately happy to see an icepack cooler next to the register with wasabi, pickled ginger and other stuff. I assume they were some sort of fresh, made-in-store deli items, so that was great.
The place itself is a clean, long, half bar - half seated corridor with an exposed kitchen. A lot of ramen bars in Japan are literally five to ten seat bars where you order from a machine, sit in front of the chefs, they make what's on your ticket and then slide a bowl of the stuff down in front of you. In a really non-ceremonious kind of way too. My nostalgia did not get the better of me because, baby, this wasn't just a ramen restaraunt. They have soba and udon dishes, bizarre Americanized sushi, Don - or bowl dishes, and, well, other stuff - all of which I wasn't into on this visit because I came for one thing and one thing only: ramen.
The shoyu and miso ramen were the first two kinds of ramen that had been sitting there on an edge of my mind and wouldn't you know, there they were, the first two ramens on the menu were shoyu and miso. It was nice to see that they even had champon ramen and maybe like five other different kinds of ramen. The place is legit. At least that is what I am thinking.
I still hadn't ordered anything, but at $5.50 for a bowl of a great soup thing is a price you just cannot beat. If you could, you may want to think twice about eating it all.
I ordered the shoyu (soy sauce) ramen from a nice lady and added a bottle of Oi Ocha brand green tea from the freezer behind me. it Again, this tea is common apparently round here in the Bay. That's pretty good too because Oi Ocha is the only tea worth your time.
So I got a 20oz. bottle of real green tea and an order of ramen, which i have traditionally come to expect to be served in a giant hand washing basin. I didn't expect things to be as similar as I have previously experienced mainly because this is not another country! This is 'merica or whatever.
At 4pm on a Thursday the kitchen staff was composed of three or four people, some asian, one of them not asian. Not that any of that really matters. However how many times have you stepped into an any number of chinese, indian, japanese, turkish, greek, or ethiopian restaurants and been greeted by a beaming anglo-saxon shaped face? You look back into the kitchen and you got goateed, retired bikers making falafel. I sat down and checked in on foursquare. Being confronted with non-ethnic people in an ethnic eatery is not a terrible thing if you're just going to eat, but if you go to someplace with the intention of replicating some sort of expectation or experience then it is always nice to get something that feels authentic. Well, my argument is pretty weak here. The good news is is that Manpaku doesn't really have to worry about anything like this. My ramen had arrived!
A quick check revealed that all the things that should be ramen were in there: bamboo shoots, two slices of salty pork, nori sheets, ramen noodles, half moon shapes of fish cake, half a hardboiled egg, all in a toasted color broth. There was a surprise too - squares of tofu. Being that tofu is great and also inherently something that could go into ramen, what a bonus!
As the british would say, I tucked right into that big dog bowl of a soup. I spooned some broth into my mouth to see if they had done it. They had just kind of done it. Instead of feeling like they had a big vat of the stuff simmering away it tasted like maybe I was the only person to have ordered the shoyu ramen in the last four hours. It was not bad by any stretch, but it was just a very basic thing. Didn't pack the salty punch I hoped for.
The noodles were great. That al dente style helps you slurp the things up the way you ought to. The sprouts could be left out.
Everything was formed up just fine. This was not a bad bowl of ramen I had myself here. The shining star of the soup would be the pork though. It even tasted of that braised shochu, sukiyaki sauce. A real staple flavor. With the price like that I won't hesitate going there again very soon. read more