My darling and I celebrated our 44th wedding anniversary at Lost Letter. It was a very special meal for us and we looked forward to it for weeks. Each dish was full of flavor and well conceived (more on each below.) As always, I try to review restaurants based on what they position themselves to be, so Lost Letter was rated based on a special meal, expensive gourmet restaurant. So while each dish we chose was full of flavor and was well conceived and executed, there were a few unforced errors that keep me from giving the overall experience a fifth star.
We started out with the bread service ($8) which included two pieces of the house made focaccia and two pieces of Janet's sourdough (look for Janet's Cafe and Bakery elsewhere, she does amazing things.) We had heard good things about the focaccia and the praise was well deserved. Good crumb and texture and held up well to the olive oil provided. The sourdough was an extra treat and we really enjoyed it.
Our starters were a bruschetta (chicken liver, mederia (sic) cream, tarragon, $20) and grilled octopus (white bean, shallot, nduja, breadcrumb, $24). The chunks of chicken liver combined with the *medeira* cream were tender and rich. I am not a huge livers fan but I really enjoyed what little my wife would share. However, the bruschetta itself was very tough and could not be cut with the flatware provided. She ended up ripping the bruschetta gently and prying it apart with her fork and knife.
When I saw the octopus on the menu it was a must-order item for me and it did not disappoint. The base of beans and nduja offered a bite of a bite of spice that I really liked, and the chef made a great choice of not putting the spice on top of the octopus itself, allowing it to stand on its own flavors.
Our mains were the pork shank (braised pork shank, cipollini onion, polenta, $38) and the halibut (roasted halibut, escarole, bearnaise), $36.) The pork shank was enough for two and my wife enjoyed it and had leftovers. We wish the menu description included some detail about what the sauce was that accented the meat, it was delicious. The polenta underneath was unfortunately runny but nonetheless full of flavor.
The halibut was excellent. Tender, buttery, melt in your mouth gentle flavor. The bearnaise was citrusy and made the fish itself next-level. The huge leaf of escarole on the side seemed at first to be a plate-filler until I tasted it. It had been grilled on a flattop or high heat pan with what tasted like beef fat. But whatever it was grilled in, it was an amazing complement to the fish it shared the plate with.
We finished with lemon gelato ($11) that had limoncello either on it or in it (we cannot agree on which.) A nice finish.
Other than the few missteps I mentioned above the real detractors were management choices. First, the tables are placed juuuust far enough apart to allow for some pretend conversational privacy. They are not far enough apart to allow for the restaurant's wine expert to stand between tables and coach the next table of diners on a wine selection without his butt literally hovering over my wife's plate as he leaned into the discussion. Since his lesson on viniculture took about 5 minutes this was very off-putting. This was compounded when the diners on our OTHER side left the restaurant and the server swept in to clear the table, again putting her backsides over our table as she reached to access all the dishes and accouterments. To the management: kindly remove one table from the floor and spread the rest out. Trust me, it makes a difference in a fine dining experience.
The other issue may be picky but I have to say it was annoying after the fact. The restaurant has iced tea available but no non-sugar sweeteners. This is bizarre. Add to this the truly annoying fact that not only is tea $5, but the restaurant charges for each refill. Come on, guys -- tea costs you next to nothing. I am obviously willing to spend $200 on a meal here, but $20 for iced tea (we got one refill each) just seems miserly.
That said, it was a great meal and we will likely be back for another special occasion. What is potentially impacted by the negatives is not our own interest, but that of any friends who ask for a recommendation. read more