We were in Paris with my entire family last month, and on our last night in town, my husband and I…read moreleft our kids with their grandparents and went to Alliance with my brothers and their wives (well, wife and almost-wife). It was a wonderful, decadent three-hour dinner, a definite highlight of our vacation.
I was able to book a table for six on TheFork less than a month in advance, pretty painless logistics for a destination restaurant in Paris. Might have helped that we went on a Monday night. I have no idea whether the restaurant was busy, as we were squirreled away in their private dining space across the street. This meant we missed out on the ambiance of the main dining room, but it was quite nice to have this mini-Alliance all to ourselves. It was calm and attractive in a minimalist way, with white walls and one long table, a cool modern light fixture and some shelf decor to add a bit of interest. There was a small kitchen adjoining the dining room, and I believe all our food was prepared there, just for us.
Service was excellent, highly attentive and personable. Our waiter was a warm host, leading a small team gathered to attend to our every need. We asked for wine pairings to go with our pre-set tasting menu, and the wine started pouring and the food started coming. I was too busy drinking to track all the wines, but they were great, nicely varied and selected to go with each course. A key part of the experience.
The food was outstanding, creative, elegant modern French cuisine from the mind of chef Toshitaka Omiya. Dinner started with a series of amuse bouches, beautiful little bites served one after another over the first half hour of our meal. There were crunchy vegetable spring rolls, thin slices of fennel filled with pastis and cucumber with cottage cheese and jalapeño. Then airy parmigiano gougeres and addictively spicy bread sticks. Wafer cookies came piped full of John Dory, and crunchy kohlrabi lollipops with sweet, tangy green apple foam--one of my favorite bites of the night. This was quickly followed by another favorite, a tiny strawberry tartlet with balsamic and white wine vinegar and a peppery mizuna salad.
The first larger course was a delicate white asparagus velouté, a cold, creamy, deeply flavorful soup adorned with tiny green leaves. We were then provided with bread and butter, the good stuff, of course, before a playful non-pasta course of radish leaf "ravioli" with crab and green apple. Artichoke came prepared several different ways, tender hearts and leaves in a creamy mousse, all of it charred by flame like crème brûlée.
At this point, our waiter showed us our upcoming main course, an Alliance signature. This was a whole chicken cooked with lobster roe and butter showing pink under the browned skin. He took it back to the kitchen, where it was carved while we enjoyed a delicious course of gnocchi with caviar and seaweed. The chicken was very good, juicy with crispy skin, and I especially liked the bite of leg meat rolled in cabbage. It wasn't the high point of the meal, though, and I wouldn't have minded a piece of duck or steak in its stead.
There was a palate cleanser of rhubarb with crispy sugar and hibiscus, a refreshing cold granita kind of deal. Then, an absolutely outstanding dessert: thin layers of chocolate biscuit with ganache, Vietnamese pepper espuma, and jasmine ice cream. I don't usually love chocolate desserts, but this one was a stunner. Dinner ended with a trio of mignardises. A brownie ice cream sandwich, a raspberry cheesecake, and a toffee madeleine.
We went home full of food and wine, with gift boxes of pastries to eat in the morning. This was a lovely dinner and a great way to spend our last night in Paris. If you're looking for a special restaurant for your vacation, I'd highly recommend Alliance.