My second visit to Le Bristol was less magical than the first, if only slightly. There were a couple key differences unrelated to food. First, we weren't seated in the gorgeous summer dining room, but rather in a more confined space by the hotel lobby. I was a bit disappointed, but I will say it was a sumptuous room, decked out in carved wood, red brocade, and gold chandeliers.
Second, there was a huge blip in the service. Matt and I had a 12:00 reservation and showed up on time. Le Bristol was not ready to open, and the hostess asked us to have a seat outside. We were seated at 12:20. There were no apologies, not even when we hinted at our discontent. This was stunning coming from a Michelin 3-star restaurant, and odd considering the rest of the service. Once we sat down, it was as impeccable as I remembered. I really liked our head waitress, a polished and smiling blond, and she was quite effusive when our plates were switched during one of our courses. In any case, there was a bright side to the mishap - we saw the Olsen twins in Le Bristol's lobby.
The food was, once again, extraordinary. This time the €85 menu included four courses rather than three, with both cheese and dessert. With a few exceptions, the food was entirely different.
We started again with the bacon shallot stick but a new trio of canapés. These were a cream of mushroom soup with parsley, a crispy goat cheese lollipop with roasted pineapple and black pepper, and tzatziki in a cucumber geleé. The soup was delightfully light and earthy, with just a hint of parsley in a thin green layer. The lollipop was tangy and sweet, and the strip of peppery pineapple echoed its play of flavors, with a savory zip from the pepper. The bubble of cucumber yielded to nutty sesame in a pleasing burst.
Then came the epic bread basket, and soon after, our amuse bouche. This was fig roasted with mozzarella and balsamic vinegar, with crunchy nibs of fresh almond tucked under the oozy cheese. The fig was soft and sweet, and the combination of favors straightforward and well done.
The appetizers were not as good as they were my first time, but they were still excellent. I had raw salmon and oysters marinated in lemon, with sesame oil, nori, and a thin spaghetti of cucumber. It was slippery and refreshing, with utterly fresh seafood, and the cucumber added nice coolness and texture. The better starter, though, was Matt's preserved duck foie gras with four spices, blackberry jam, green apple jelly, and brioche toasts. The spices - ginger, cinnamon, coriander, and pepper - were smoothly incorporated into the rich foie gras. The creamy foie was spot-on, and the layer of blackberry jam on top was the perfect foil for the fat and the subtle spices.
Our entrees brought the bookends to our meal. Matt's John Dory was worse than anything else I've had at Le Bristol by several degrees. Sauteed then served with cream sauce and a ravioli of bacon, clams, and young onions, it was bland and the fish dense and grainy. The ravioli was pretty - instead of pasta, a thin sheet of clam was placed on top of a nest of bacon and greens. The clams were great, but the greens, which contained something like cabbage as well as onion, were stringy and a bit bitter. Now, though, for the best of the entrees I've tasted at Le Bristol - the spit-roasted wood pigeon. I'd never had pigeon before, and now when I see them on the street I get a little hungry. This was one of the best things I've ever eaten. The meat was beautiful and red, tender with the exact optimal amount of chew. It was masterful cooking, the pigeon enhanced by a delicious red onion almond compote and the pigeon's natural juices. Just exquisite.
Not that I wanted my palate cleansed, but I enjoyed the refreshing mango sorbet with almond milk, orange blossom, lemon, and vanilla. Ditto the dessert that followed. There was a liquid nitrogen lychee snowball with an iced meringue perfumed with pear, rose, and lemon. It was frosty and delicate, with lovely flavors that tip-toed on the tongue. The chocolate dessert was richer, darker, an origami crane holding iced coconut milk and a hot chocolate elixir. The chocolate crane was paper-thin, and the lava within flowed with decadence. There was something like chocolate cake inside as well, and the coconut did well to temper the richness.
Then came a cart of mignardises, from which we grabbed dark chocolate and orange, milk chocolate and nuts, marshmallow, nougatine, salted caramel, passionfruit caramel, puff pastry swirl, and raspberry ginger and salted butter caramel macarons. As last time, the caramel macaron was the show-stopping highlight.
When it was over, we got Le Bristol gift bags with chocolates and mignardises inside. We took these home and I savored them, recalling our lunch. Dinner carries more food and a higher price tag, but I'm not even tempted. I don't buy that anything could far exceed Le Bristol's lunch experience. read more