What an incredibly pleasant and unexpected gem this place is. The accolades of the restaurant and executive chef are apropros, and I'm glad that I got to experience this place on my most recent visit to the Raleigh area. Onwards!
Location: 4 out of 5
I don't know a lot of places around the Chapel Hill campus area since I'm not from there originally nor did I attend UNC CC, but I know where the Carolina Brewery is. Not to sound stupid, but Lantern is right across the street from CB, and there's a nifty little lot that you can park in next door that is free past a certain hour of the evening. Maybe 8pm? All I remember is that I didn't have to pay to park. I imagine that any earlier than 8, it would be difficult to find parking in the area with the very densely populated restaurant offerings, so do keep that in mind as you plan your trip.
Service: 4.5 out of 5
We did not have a reservation for the Wednesday that we visited, but were seated promptly by the maitre d', who was also performing duties as a server and regular host. The service that we experienced here was top of the line. It was the right proportion of southern charm and hospitality mixed with an almost-but-not-quite Michelin 1-star sense of urgency and efficiency. Our waitress was fast, efficient, and unpretentiously friendly even though both of us might have been slightly underdressed. More on this in a bit.
Décor and Ambiance: 4.5 out of 5
Sound levels are quiet in this restaurant, and the space is tastefully decorated. Acoustic panels are about 3 - 4 feet above the dining tables themselves, and the wall on one side is adorned with a multi-paneled canvas on which sleek lines grace. The lighting is dim, but not so much that you'll need to use the LED flashlight function of your smartphone. Let me be clear - this is a nice place and in full disclosure - there was a guy sitting at one of the tables wearing a thermal shirt with mardi gras-esque beads on, so my jeans and BMW Motorcycles t-shirt with wool coat weren't atrociously out of place. Had I realized that this place was as nice as it was, I would have at least thrown on a dress shirt. This is not a pedestrian place that you would eat at on a Monday night; instead, most of our fellow diners were celebrating special events or occasions.
Selection of locally sourced items: 4.5 out of 5
An eclectic Asian fusion menu with locally sourced ingredients was a high point of the menu. Local meat, produce, and dairy products are a highlight. Incredibly, they also offer whole fried NC fish (the type escapes me). On the particular evening that we went in mid November of 2012, I think we opted to sample "dim sum" style (all apps, no entrees): the pork and chive dumplings, the braised Korean style shortribs, Korean style honey touched fried chicken drumsticks, the NC crab and local pork spring rolls, and the charcuterie.
Quality and taste of food: 4.5 out of 5
Amazingly parity throughout the entire set of options that we had. While pork and chive dumplings aren't by any means high class food, the taste of the pork was creamy and delicate. The braised shortribs were perhaps the weak link of the evening, but not bad by any means. Rather - I felt like I could have been eating the short ribs at any number of restaurants. However, the honey touched fried chicken drumsticks were skillfully assembled with just the right amount of crisp and the right amount of sweetness. The NC crab and local pork spring rolls were by far the most memorable, and I can say unequivocally that although I've eaten a lot of crab and pork spring rolls in the past, the ones at Lantern far exceeded my expectations as well as anything I've ever eaten. The charcuterie platter was in the top 15 - 20% of what I've had across all experiences, so a big nod to that offering.
Price: 3 out of 5
Probably the least exciting part of the meal. With the food listed above and 4 total drinks between two people, the bill came to about 130 including tax and tip. For a nice night out on vacation, I thought that this price was quite reasonable.
Overall: 4 out of 5
Incredibly strong 4 star restaurant, and I'd happily return any day of the week. read more