My husband and I enjoyed a lovely dinner at Lantern last night. The atmosphere makes it feel like a special occasion, even if it isn't. Food-wise, there were some outstanding hits, and an equal number of misses.
We started out with the pork & chive dumplings that so many have raved about, and a special--the mixed seafood salad with thai coconut dressing. The dumplings were good, but they won't haunt me in my dreams. I've had equally well executed dumplings at decent Chinese restaurants in the area. And, I cannot tell a lie...high quality frozen dumplings, properly prepared, might equal these. Next time, I'll pass on the dumplings. Lantern offers much more exciting options coming out of its kitchen.
Like the seafood salad, for instance. A delectable mixture of fresh shrimp, crab and the *most* tender scallops I've ever encountered, tossed in a light coconut dressing, with a few micro greens, a little fresh tarragon (unexpected flavor surprise!) & slivered red pepper for accent. Pricey for a small appetizer at $15, but worth the cost nonetheless.
Our entrees were the japanese pot on fire and another of the evening's specials: cherry-wood smoked miso-glazed black cod, black sticky rice with edamame, sauteed bok choi, braised shiitakes, and a sake-miso beurre blanc-like sauce. My husband thought his Japanese hot pot was "good for what it was"--a beef soup with cubed potatoes in a decent broth with some forgettable veggies (carrots, onions, etc). In spite of having assorted cuts of beef (sirloin, spare ribs, etc), it was kind of a bore flavor-wise. When I tasted it, I didn't think it tasted Asian in any way. For a $29 dollar bowl of soup, we were expecting a little more pizazz and creativity.
Unfortunately for my husband, all the entree pizazz was on my plate. While my entree was very similar to one of the menu's mainstays (kind of defeats the purpose of a 'special', no?), it blew me away in the flavor department. The cod was buttery & smokey, with an amazing balance of bitter and sweet notes and a luscious texture. The rice was a little gummy, but had a nice sweet flavor to counter the fish. The bok choi was not flavorful in any way, but did offer a resting place for my palette amid all the flavors. The shiitakes were okay, but amazingly devoid of flavor. Surprising for a mushroom whose distinct flavor usually steals the show. Made me think that braising (or whatever they did) was not the right way to treat that ingredient. Then there was the sauce...dear god, that sauce....I wanted to swim in it, bathe in it, and then take a gallon of it home to drink later. Definitely pulled the whole dish together.
For dessert, we rounded things out with the steamed persimmon pudding and the
banana caramel sundae that many yelpers adore. My husband's persimmon pudding was delicious and tender, with notes of cardamom and orange peel. Truly more of a pudding than the steamed dessert I grew up eating, but a dessert that is fit for Autumn. My sundae was good, but lacked something it needed to make it a very memorable finish. The ice cream was good, the cream was soft and creamy, the peanut brittle was good but average, and the caramel was not in a sufficient quantity to be noticeable. A $9 dessert? Not really.
The atmosphere is sexy & austere, with dim lighting fit for gazing across a table, neutral tones, and just a few spare lanterns as a decorative focal point. Service was great. Our server was a real pro, and we found him to be very friendly and attentive.
When we've got the cash to spend, we'll definitely be back. And next time, I think we'll be able to make some better choices, and steer away from the types of dishes that aren't bound to knock our socks off. read more