When this place first opened, sometime in 2005 I think, it was an amazing little spot; high quality food at reasonable prices, possibly unique for Celtic Tiger Dublin. I remember having the best ever Toulouse sausage and mash here, and another time having blood pudding and stewed apple, mmmm. I popped in here for lunch today and the menu is still pretty decent, most dishes come in under ten euro. I had a hankering for soupe a l'oignon, or French onion soup as it is called everywhere outside of France. I've always been slightly mystified why it's specifically called 'French' onion soup, I suppose it's the addition of the bread and melted gruyere cheese that make it French.
Anyhoo, I should lay my French onion soup cards out here. I have a bit of an addiction to the kind of cheap and cheerful onion soup served by the crappier restaurants in Paris, particularly those down behind the Boulevard Saint Michel, yes that's right, in there in rue de la Harpe. I'm not ashamed. The soup is delicious; a dark-ish but still clear broth, brimming with soft lengths of onion strings, topped with cheap white baguette and gruyere cheese. YOM. The secret ingredient is onionyness. (Say 'onionyness' five times fast, go on).
So basically, I know what I like, but I may not be the best judge of ...er... 'gourmet' French onion soup, such as one might expect from a restaurant like L'Gueuleton (at €8.50, I would certainly expect it to be bloody 'gourmet'). Well, it was kind of salty. Not excessively 'pah, pah, get me a glass of water!' salty, but salty enough to cover any actual flavour. The texture was right, slimy in an oniony way (I know that sliminess is generally not a good thing in food but here's the exception) and brothy. The bread and melted cheese was nice but, and here's where this review gets rather petty: the bread had become completely soaked in soup and disintegrated, and there was too much damn cheese. I ended up shovelling large swathes of cheese into my mouth with some soggy breadbits attached. The soup had been served with one slice of white bread and one slice of thick, sweet brown bread on the side and neither were matched well with the soup. The white bread just disintegrated while I was using it to mop up the soup, and the brown bread was too sweet and did not at all suit the salty, aiming-for-oniony flavour of the soup. I got the impression the breads were there for the look of the thing, oh we're a nice restaurant, we serve nice bread. Sigh.
French onion soup is a peasant food. It doesn't need flounces, unless you're a food fancier, as opposed to a food eater. This soup needed more onion flavour, less salt, less wussy bread and the addition of some thick unfancy baguette both topped with cheese in the soup itself and served on the side to mop up excess soup. This may not be acceptable food etiquette for a fancy restaurant, but if that's the case, don't serve food that requires one to enjoy it in an unfancy way. A proper French restaurant wouldn't worry about such things. Food is to be enjoyed after all. Oh well. It was decent, I suppose. I still prefer the cheap and cheerful soup served in the crappier parts of the Quartier Latin. Vive Paris touristique! read more