I knew Kumiko would be a five star experience. Anything less would have been a blow to emotional wellbeing. To say I was excited to come here is an understatement. I have been mixing (home bartender, quarantine hobby turned passion) from Julia Momosé's The Way of the Cocktail for a year or two now, and it has remained one of my favorite cocktail books to mix from. I've admired Momosé's craft from afar (I'm a Manhattan-dweller, and I'm aware we have no shortage of fabulous cocktail bars here either) and never really thought my first Kumiko experience was as imminent as it ultimately was. A recent trip to Chicago had me lusting after Kumiko, but dining here originally wasn't feasible when the trip was planned. But it seems by attempts at manifesting worked, and now I am here, leaving a glowing Yelp review. Kumiko was a well-oiled machine, sophisticated an elegant, with outstanding cocktails and an equally formidable food menu. Step by step, this was a flawlessly executed experience. Impressed and dazzled, I left Kumiko buzzed and gratified.
Came here as a party of four on a Sunday night. The space itself is fairly small, but that means each party gets great serve. The decor is fairly minimalist but all elements are tastefully designed. It's upscale without being pretentious.
Cocktails are obviously where Kumiko shines. I am kicking myself for not taking pictures of the whole menu because it was vast and endlessly impressive. Not to mention, there were off-menu drinks and nightly specials that I had too much fun drinking to log in my mental recipe bank. Sadly, very few of the drinks I ordered are on the online menu. But luckily, between the four of us, I got to try a dizzying number of drinks over the course of the night. The photos of single drinks accompanying my review are a cognac sour (I'm not a big cognac drinker but this cocktail was outstanding) and the New Wave (Akashi Japanese Whisky, Pineau des Charentes Rouge, Verjus Blanc, Chiyonosono '8,000 Generations' Rice Shōchū, Mugicha, and Combier Kümmel Caraway Liqueur), which is a work of art and very possibly just might be the best drink I've ever had. Beyond these two, I remember loving two of my sister's drinks, the Sea Flower (Nikka Coffey Gin, Dolin Blanc Vermouth de Chambéry, Yuzu Koshō, Kabosu Juice, and Lime) and the Umeboshi Chu-Hi (Munemasa Mizunomai Green Tea Shōchū, Shiso-pickled Umé, Sesame, Sparkling Umé Juice). I think it's safe to say that you won't be disappointed with any drink you order. And one last note on those "off-menu" items: if you tell your server what you like/what you're in the mood for, they will effortlessly recommend something on or off the menu and describe it all perfectly. If you're overwhelmed with choices, put the decision in their hands.
Food-wise, Kumiko offers a small but formidable menu featuring creative small plates that are perfect for sharing. Two members of our party had significant gluten sensitivity and/or celiac, and it was a relief to find that nearly the whole menu was naturally gluten-free. Eats, below:
Assorted pickled veggies: A
Pretty standard but delicious all the same. My favorites were the beets and shishito peppers.
Japanese Potato Salad (yukon gold, quick pickle carrots, shio-kōji pickled cucumber, smoked ham): A+
This dish comes on a teeny tiny plate and looks like it won't do much for your hunger level but it was surprisingly quite filling. Immensely flavorful and it even had one party member breaking her no red meat rule because the rest of us were raving about it.
Cod Wings w/ charred lemon, house ponzu, yuzu zest: A+
The mechanics of making cod wings is far out of my purview, but these astounded us. The wings were lightly fried and the ponzu/yuzu combo lightened the dish up significantly. Thoughtful, powerful and tasty.
Maitakédon (marinated mushroom, caramelized onion, onsen tamago, crispy onions, gari): A+
Four self-proclaimed mushroom-lovers devoured this one. Earthy and savory with a great variety of flavors and textures.
Nikumaki (asparagus, binchotan grilled beef, roasted tallow hollandaise, green garlic powder): A
This dish was super creative and tasty but it was oddly not a highlight. It's all relative though, clearly everything was amazing. The beef-wrapped asparagus had elevated devils on horseback vibes and the hollandaise was a beautiful touch -- much more intriguing than your typical aioli.
Crab Salad w/ added roe: A+
I wish I could tell you exactly what was in this but it was one of the night's featured specials. Tender meat sitting surrounded by greens, topped with roe (optional, for an additional $10, worth it in my opinion). Another surprisingly filling one and so very flavorful. read more