Finally! I keep hearing about the latest places that call themselves "gastropubs" and am almost always disappointed. Most places manage an okay beer selection and fall flat on their faces when it comes to food. Kraftwork is exceptional in both respects and ups the ante with deliciously crafted cocktails (Corbusier -- a tasty drink that contains absinthe? How novel!) and a small but well-chosen selection of wine that accommodates the wino in me.
On to the real meat of the place: the food! Anyone can invest in a lot of taps and a beer consultant, or throw in the kitchen sink when it comes to bottles (Kraftwork has none), but I'm almost always left wanting when it comes to the "gastro-" part of "gastropub". The menu size is restrained and the descriptions are simple, but everything I've had delivers big time in the taste, preparation, and usually size. And usually contains substantial amounts of meat. The burger -- medium-rare, Point Reyes Blue(!) and bacon onion jam(!) -- is the new burger to beat in Philadelphia. The "Crispy Pork Terrine" are lovely little crispy fried, melt-in-your-mouth balls of porky deliciousness. The charcuterie board, including an unhealthy portion of non-fried (but bacon wrapped) rabbit terrine, was nearly meal enough for two. The meat finale is a "pork crispy treat" -- crackling substituting rice crispies, topped with chocolate and bacon. It's a meat-eater's dream come true.
On the vegetable side, the "fiddlehead ferns" special was a remarkably simple but satisfying dish. I was told by the server that they're only in season for a short time and would be taken off the menu as soon as they were no longer freshly available. I'm used to hearing discussion of seasonal veggies in fine dining establishments, but it's nice to hear that a pub is basing their menu on the freshness of their produce. There's a veggie plate in addition to the charcuterie board. The "faux gras" tastes nothing like the real thing, but was a good, rich, creamy, buttery slab of non-meat products -- all i could pick out specifically was garlic.
For me, the fish was 50-50. Most yelpers seem to be partial to Monk's mussels, but I think Kraftwork's easily give them a run for their money. Maybe I just went on a good night. The Trout BLT, on the other hand, was, well, fishy. Trout is a fishy fish, and I should've expected this, but I guess I was just expecting them to miraculously balance it out or cover it up with bacon or sauce. They don't. It's definitely a trout sandwich. Period.
I can't say enough good things about this place. It's actually motivating me to trek up to Fishtown from South Philly. I almost wish it were further away so I could burn off more of the calories I consume in beer, pig, beef, pig, rabbit, and most everything else they're cooking up. read more