Dear Michelin inspectors
I hope you're impressed and excited by the plethora of new restaurants opening in London this year. The food scene has never been more vibrant
However, as you sit to consider Michelin stars for next year, I hope that you look behind the gloss and really concentrate on the food. I think by now, a lot of corporations have worked out the 'Michelin formula' and restaurants like HKK and Ametsa are clearly 'made for Michelin' establishments. However, I must say that I was disappointed when I dined at these 2 restaurants and Ametsa especially failed to deliver on the food and flavour side
I am however much more impressed by the restaurants opened by fresh new faces like Tom Sellers at Restaurant Story and last Friday, I was lucky enough to eat the best meal I've had this year so far at the Kitchen Table, the brainchild of couple James Knappett (who has cooked at Noma, Per Se and The Ledbury) and Sandia Chang, who runs front of house
I had met Sandia, while was running front of house at Roganic when I dined there and I am so pleased to see that she and James have finally got their own place. Accessed via the same entrance as Bubbledogs, their champagne and hot dogs front portion of the establishment, you step through the leather curtain which separates the Kitchen Table from Bubbledogs into the show kitchen, around which the 18 guests are seated. Seatings are staggered so that half the covers are fed together at staggered star times
Their wish was to create an ambiance and surroundings as if they are entertaining guests in their own home. However, the service is still top notch and professional but it's so nice to be able to interact easily with James, Sandia and their kitchen and serving staff. Unlike some other kitchen counter restaurants that I've eaten in, they are super friendly and you are encouraged to interact at Kitchen Table. It was a lovely, relaxed and fun evening
They serve a 12 course tasting menu, listed on the wall merely by the main ingredient in each course, all sourced within the UK and the provenance of the food is announced as each course is introduced. At £68, it is an absolute steal for cooking of this standard. There truly wasn't a weak dish in the whole line up. All were well balanced, packed with flavour and brought repeated smiles to my face
1. Oyster emulsion, beef heart tartare, sorrel on rye cracker
The beef and oyster has rich deep depths punctuated by the sharpness of sorrel
2. Crispy chicken skin, rosemary mascarpone, bacon jam
Deservedly a signature dish. I could eat a tub of that chicken skin
3. Asparagus, heirloom tomatoes, black olive crumb, black olive oil, sour cream
Fresh salad flavours
4. Steamed sole, grapes, cucumber, scallop sauce, shavings of smoked dehydrated scallop coral
The sauce was heavenly and the scallop coral was amazing
5. Poached white skin onion containing yoghurt, mint oil, pea shoots
Lovely single bites
6. Hen of the woods, girolles pear, peanuts, celery cress, whipped brown butter
The meaty Hen of the woods mushroom found good companions in the rest of this dish
7. Truffle atop tagliatelle, crab & mackarel sauce
Flavours of the sea beautifully orchestrated to match the truffle
8. Duck 3 ways - roasted breast, liver parfait, confit in tempura heart of fennel, orange
Each of the 3 preparations shone but I think the parfait won for me
9. Goat curd, wild garlic, homemade bread toasted in brown butter
The yummiest garlic bread you will taste!
10. Raspberry, beetroot foam, sorrel granite, beetroot meringue
Excellent palate cleanser
11. Strawberry, toasted brioche, verbena, vanilla ice cream
Soft, sweet, fruity decadence
12. Caramel, ice cream, chocolate coating, buts
A lovely end to the meal
If you don't feel my championing of Kitchen Table carries enough weight as an amateur foodie, please read the messages on the blackboard in the kitchen to find good wishes from culinary luminaries such as Thomas Keller no less
If there is any natural justice in the world, I implore you to recognise the quality of cooking here at Kitchen Table and award them a star for next year. Kitchen Table deserve to be the 'Dabbous of 2013'
Yours humbly
Yee Gan O read more