On our last visit to Portland, Ki'ikibáa seemed like the most interesting place to try near where we were staying in NE Portland. It's a counter service establishment and it wasn't too busy when we arrived for a Thursday dinner. The food took about 15 minutes to cook after we ordered at the counter. Since we're not very experienced with Yucatan cuisine, we tried out a bunch of small items.
Starting with the salsa - there are two types provided with every meal. Firstly a fiery orange colored one that initially tastes quite fruity and smoky but a microsecond later assaults the tongue with blistering heat. I seriously started sweating with only a couple of drops of this habanero-based salsa. The green salsa, on the other hand, starts with a earthy and herbal taste, while the heat lingers in the background only to build and build to finally erupt into a fireball in the mouth.
Cochinita Pibil ($15) - This dish has a very interesting aroma. It's very gamey, almost goat-like in smell. Luckily it tastes nothing like how it smells. Instead, the large chunks of perfectly cooked pork shoulder are braised in a deep and savory stew, like it's been slow cooked for hours upon hours. The taste is very familiar and comforting, something perfect for a cold and rainy day. With the savoriness comes a slight bit of a fruity flavor as well, very complementary rather than clashing. The dish comes with five warmed corn tortillas. (5/5)
Tamales ($4) - This tamale includes masa surrounding an inner core of pork and chicken shreds, then steamed in a banana leaf, unwrapped, and topped with a tomato achiote salsa. The salsa on top is extremely acidic and tangy like a strong tomato sauce. The masa is fantastic. The banana leaf imparts a fragrance to the corn flour that wafts into the nose with every bite. The masa forms a more firm outer layer while the inside is tender - not as tender as the kind of goopy Salvadoran variety, but softer than a typical Northern Mexican corn husk tamale. The interior, where the masa touches the meat, there's almost like a reduced gelatinized broth, kind of like gravy that gives a concentrated savory and meaty flavor. Super delicious. (5/5)
Empanada de Carne Molida ($4) - They had three choices - pork, cheese, or spinach. We went with the pork. The empanada is just okay in my opinion. It's fried, but then plopped onto a piece of parchment paper, which is nonpourous and lets the freshly fried moisture underneath soak the bottom. The top still retains a fried masa-like crisp, and the entire thing is topped with chopped pickled cabbage and red onion, giving even more crunch and a pleasing acidic punch. Unfortunately the masa and especially the filling, a savory and sour ground pork mixture, are quite dry. This dish practically requires salsa to eat and unfortunately the salsa is too spicy for me. It's great dipped in the Cochinita Pibil broth though! (3/5)
Panuchos de Asada ($4) - This is an interesting flat tortilla disk, fried until nicely crunchy although not quite to the point of turning into a tortilla chip. They slather a thin layer of refried black bean inside, essentially stuffing the tortilla, leaving a cloudy layer of soft masa on top, then add a vegetable mix of chopped onion and cilantro. The menu also mentions lettuce, pickled cabbage and red onions, tomato, avocado and jalapeno, but none of those were included. Strange. At any rate, the overall flavor profile is nice, with the herbal and allium notes on top, the savory and salty beans, and the slight char on the meat. The meat itself is perhaps a little on the tough side, but nothing a little chewing can't solve. I do think that it's again a dish that requires salsa, but it has a bit more moisture than the empanada. (4/5)
Salbutes de Asada ($4) - This is basically the same as the panuchos minus the refried beans and with a different fried tortilla. The fried shell is kind of a like a tender basket with a delicately crispy skin. It's puffy but not airy; much more substantial than the fried tortilla in the panuchos. This one also suffers a bit from being placed on the parchment paper, getting the bottom a bit soggy and messing with the fluffiness. (4/5)
Overall I really enjoyed trying food at Ki'ikibáa. They certainly serve some interesting dishes, familiar yet different, that I can't say I've had before. I have no idea how this restaurant compares with food actually in Yucatan though!
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