Granby Street doesn't initially strike you as a hub of high quality cuisine. And you'd be right. With seemingly every other establishment in this neck of the woods being either a post-booze-up grease refectory, or indeed, a boozer itself, imagine my surprise as I ambled towards Kayal at the very bottom of the road. I'd heard great things about this place, but was concerned that its' location among 75% of Leicester's takeaways would unfairly make it stand out amongst the inundation of kebabs, pizzas and burgers.
The decor and atmosphere of Kayal in general was a world away from the obscenely bright interiors of the surrounding takeaways, literally saturated with the stench congealed fat. Beautifully lit with lanterns suspended from the ceiling and the walls decorated with what look like bonafide artefacts from the south of India, it felt genuinely welcoming, a sentiment further enhanced by the enthusiastic and incredibly polite staff.
The restaurant prides itself in the "backwater cuisine" of Southern India. I for one would not usually associate the term "backwater" with anything of notable quality. I was however, to be proved spectacularly wrong. Before I get into the nitty gritty of the review, I would like to give the pappodoms a special mention as I have never seen nor tasted anything like them. Ever. There were regular pappodoms, brown whole-wheat pappodoms, orange pappodoms; heck, there were even star-shaped pappodoms! The pickles were majestic as well; a zingy lime chutney was complemented perfectly by a subtle mint raita along with crisp fresh salad. Arguably, the finest pre curry nosh I have ever had the pleasure of eating.
I ordered the chicken puffs to start which were basically finely chopped chicken pieces cooked with a variety of herbs and spices and wrapped in beautifully light puff pastry. They were perfectly cooked and presented with even more of the delicious pickles and salad aforementioned and I enjoyed these morsels immensely.
As a restaurant that takes inspiration for its menu from the southern Indian state of Kerala it's no surprise that they specialise in seafood. Personally, I'm not a huge fan of eating marine dwelling creatures. My accomplice on the night however, was and he couldn't get enough of the seafood curry he ordered for the main course. He lavished praise on the sauce, saying it was the best he had ever tasted and equal admiration was bestowed on the abundance of whopping crustaceans it contained. It featured kingfish, mussels, squid and countless king prawns cooked with Kerala spices, onion, mango, ginger, garlic and mustard seeds. Seriously, if you love your shellfish, he assured me that you would probably have to go to India to find a better seafood curry. I had a Cheera Erachi Curry which was essentially pieces of delicious, melt-in-the-mouth lamb cooked in fresh spinach, turmeric, red chillies and onions in an impossibly creamy sauce. I'm not joking, this dish got better and better the more I ate and I was decidedly upset when I had finished it, such was the quality of the dish.
As a side, we shared a bowl of spicy potatoes with peppers, peas and stir fried in onions and tomatoes. The standard Anglicized dish of Bombay potatoes has never truly been my favourite of sides but the much needed makeover meant that I wouldn't have swapped this one for the world. We were also given bread on the house - a rare and unexpected gesture. These were stunning Bathuras, a kind of thin, bubbly, fried Naan, but with a focus on texture for mopping up sauce, rather than fillings or spices etc. After this deed, we realised the pride that the staff take in the food being served at the Kayal. To show us just how good the food really is there, there were prepared to offer it to us for nothing, if only to enhance the overall experience of the meal. It certainly did that, as the sauce in my main was just crying out to be mopped up at the conclusion of the feast, and thankfully, I was able to!
Now you might think that all this quality comes at a hefty price. In fact, the sheer value of the place very nearly outshone the quality of the cuisine. Frankly, I was flabbergasted as we paid around £35 for two, which included pappodoms, a starter, two mains, a side, a dessert and two drinks each.
The worst part of the night by far, was leaving this diamond in the rough and heading back out onto grotty Granby Street. As one homeless person in the immediate vicinity attempted to ignite a bin, we realised that we had criminally forgotten to leave a tip. Neither of us had any change and neither were we prepared to leave a £10 gratuity. We explained our embarrassing predicament to the Kayal's generous host and promised to double his tip next time we returned. He said not to worry - displaying genuine humility. However, I will definitely be back many a time before I leave this city, such was the enjoyment and I will be sure to be as generous with my tip as they were with their hospitality! read more