Jackson has an extensive network of trails that run through a lovely village with several nice places to stay. We are avid cross country skiers and we have come here many times, always staying at the phenomenal Windy Hill Bed & Breakfast, which is right on the East Pasture Loop trail. When everything is going right, Jackson XC is wonderful. Unfortunately, Jackson frequently fails to live up to its promise, for several reasons. While Windy Hill's spectacular location, affable host and affordable rates keep us coming back, the XC center often frustrates us.
One reason is not actually the XC center's fault. Jackson, relatively speaking, does not get that much snow. New Hampshire gets less snow than Vermont, and Jackson in particular seems to get the short end of the stick, perhaps because it sits on the east side of the Presidential Range.
But the XC does a lousy job with the snow that it does get. The Jackson XC center is a non-profit foundation, and seems to run an amateurish, disorganized operation compared to the for-profit resorts in New England that we love like Trapp Family Lodge, Waterville Valley, etc. First, the Jackson trails are not well constructed and are plagued with drainage problems. Places like Trapp dig drainage ditches all along the trail, so that when it snows, the snow immediately sticks to the trail and there is no running water in the way. Jackson, however, has trouble opening a lot of its best trails, even after several snow falls, because of running water. Having walked on some of the trails in the summer, it is easy to see why. Instead of having drainage ditches all along the trails, they merely dig the occasional channel across the trail for water to run out. Presumably the issue is cost.
The grooming operation and shop are also disorganized and have caused us much frustration. For one thing, they just don't groom as often and as consistently as, say, Trapp. But okay, no big deal. But two incidents in particular stand out. There is one epic loop 25k loop (the Ellis River and Hall trails) that we love to do, but for the reasons discussed above is rarely skiable. On one occasion, the website appeared to report that the trails were all groomed. So we set out to ski it. When we were about 75% done with the loop, with just a big downhill cruise left, we hit a stretch that was completely ungroomed. And steep. And with possible running water. And we were stuck. We did not have the equipment or skiils to deal with the conditions. And we were too exhausted to ski the entire 75% back the way we came. Fortunately, there was a parking lot that we had passed where someone graciously gave us a ride back to our car.
As it turned out, there was a way it was theoretically possible to glean from the Jackson website that the grooming was incomplete. The website listed the kilometers groomed, and if you checked that distance against the total distance of the trail, you would see that the two distances did not match. That was THE ONLY WAY TO TELL and avoid getting completely stranded in the middle of the woods late in the day. It was the height of negligence by the center, and completely typical of the way they operate. We were hopping mad, as was our host at the Windy Hill, who gave them an earful. Since that time, I believe they have been SLIGHTLY clearer in their grooming reports -- but not much.
Another incident. We now have a baby. We called right before our trip to reserve a pulk to rent for two days. We came the first day and used the pulk. It was great. We returned it (because it would not fit in our car). We came back the next day, and we were told that the pulks were all reserved -- but not for us! He told us that other folks had not only reserved the pulks ahead of time, but already paid for them, and there was nothing he could do. He told us we could wait around for an hour or two and MAYBE if others had not shown up, or if another pulk came back, he could give us one. But that was simply not an option with a baby who was getting tired and cranky and who would not nap in the lodge. So we were forced to go back to our B&B and just take turns skiing. If the pulks were already reserved before I called, why was I told that I could have the pulk for two days? The "employee" (volunteer?) was impatient and unapologetic with me. Other than having me wait around, he offered nothing.
In sum, if there is a ton of snow, and you have a great place to stay, Jackson is worth a visit. If you are a serious cross country skier looking to make one trip to New England or to purchase a vacation home near good cross country skiing, look elsewhere, like Stowe, VT. read more