I have two rules in life: whenever a stranger offers to give you ride in their van, gladly accept; and whenever a zoo offers free admission, take advantage. So there I was, famished from a late fall afternoon at the Lincoln Park Zoo. My options for a meal were few. I could incapacitate a nearby zookeeper, break into the tiger pit and abscond with a tray of rat bones and rabbit meat; or I could set out my own to one of the scores of Lincoln Park restaurants. My jiu-jitsu is a bit rusty, so I opted for option number two.
As I strolled down Belden Avenue I perused my phone for nearby locales, all while concocting a plan for how I can weasel my way to the top of the will of any of the homeowner's on the stately street. I had a craving for pizza and decided to give Homeslice a try. It's a thin crust joint on the neighborhood's west side.
Urban Dictionary defines "homeslice" as a good friend or someone who seems like a little slice of home. If you can't trust Urban Dictionary, who can you trust. I wasn't dining with my homeslice for this meal, but nonetheless, was excited for what was in store. Upon stepping inside, the first thing you notice is the exposed brick and rustic wood. I was half-expecting Ron Swanson or a Keebler Elf to pop out and take my order while carving me a new chest of drawers. If there'd been a moose head hanging from the wall, I would've thought I'd made a wrong turn and ended up at a ski lodge in Vail. While I was admiring the fun Christmas decor and trying to decipher if a nearby man was a human or a walrus (50/50 perhaps?) a waiter came by to provide water and collect a drink order. He informed me that free refills are provided here so I quickly sent him away to bring me the largest vat of Coke that they have.
Homeslice's menu is enormous with an endless assortment of apps, salads, soups and calzones. The pizzas, which is what you came here for, dear reader, come in 10", 14" or 18" sizes. There are numerous offerings whether you want heavier meats like beef and sausage, something lighter with chicken or veggie only. You also have the option to build your own or take it by the slice if you need a quick fix. Go crazy and even get a gluten free option. They have those too. I'm looking at you, Zooey Deschanel!
Upon my waiter's return, I was listening as experimental indie rock (Wasilla's own Portugal. The Man to be exact) through the speakers and gazing upon Homeslice's freshly lacquered tables, but composed myself long enough to order the Bennett's Beauty (pepperoni, Italian sausage, mushrooms, mozzarella, provolone and marinara). Of the dozen meat pizza options, there isn't a single one that contains only meats and cheese (much to my chagrin). I've never cared for veggies, olives or mushrooms on pizza, so I got mine without 'shrooms. The Meatball 'Za (meatball, giardiniera, and marinara) was also in the running too. I plan on sending Homeslice a sternly worded email that the name of the pie should be changed to the Meatball 'Suh. "Pizza" is pronounced "peet-SUH" not "peet-ZA". Meatball 'Za should be saved for a lasagna dish if one is ever added to the menu. Say it with me, "la-ZAhn-yuh". To review: peet-SUH and la-ZAhn-yuh. Are we clear, Homeslice?
My 10 inches of Bennett (Tony or Beck, I wasn't quite sure) arrived in short order and my server was quick to bring me a free refill as well. The pizza was piping hot just as it should be. It was loaded with toppings and the bake was perfect from the crust to the bottom. I must warn you, the base of the pizza on which the mountain of toppings rests is paper thin. Placing one's thumb in the center of the slice will cause the front of the piece to droop downward resulting in some of the topping falling off. A thumb near the front of the slice will cause the middle to dip like a rhinoceros on a tightrope. I recommend using a fork for the first few bites until the slice is more easily manageable. I found the cheese to be average, but the fresh toppings and chewy but flavorful crust more than make up for it. The tangy sauce was my favorite part, and I would not have turned down even a bit more even though it was distributed nicely. In fact, I enjoyed the pizza more and more with each piece. I was very full at three slices, but had walked a good deal on this day (with more to come) so the extra calories were not a concern. The 10" is plenty for one really hungry person or even two people who don't want to feel overly stuffed. There's even sriracha on the table, not my thing, but worth a shot for the more adventurous.
Homeslice currently holds the place as my favorite thin slice establishment in the city. I do wish the cheese was more flavorful and the pizza itself wasn't so flimsy, but I'll be back to try one of their many other offerings. As the halogen display in the restaurant says, "I could give up pizza, but I'm not a quitter."
Food: ****
Atmosphere: ****1/2
Service: ***1/5
Overall: **** read more