So there were some positives and then far too many negatives for a restaurant of these pretensions.
What I liked: A good wine list with a few nice surprises for those in the know.
A big dining room with high ceilings that makes it relatively quiet, even on a Saturday night.
Service: a goofy waiter who fidgeted and had to ask us how every dish was. Already not a big fan of the dissertations delivered before each so... Oh, and for the wine service, didn't give me the cork (wine service 101) and when bottle taken home was discovered to have the cork from another table's bottle in it.
The dining room needs some freshening up in terms of decor. Some cheese here and there that, well, for the price, shouldn't be there.
Food: We mulled the choice between a la carte and the tasting menu. I'm always interested in finding out what a chef can do although a tasting menu can be a risk because you are asking the chef to be creative at a fast pace (tasting menus tend to change reasonably fast). We opted for the 5 course tasting menu at $75. The three course would have been $45 with some supplements for various dishes. So two problems.
Several people at nearby tables had ordered the regular menu and received copious plates of nice looking food. Three courses would have been an ample meal and the kitchen had them under control: the ones that tend to appear in the reviews (egg, duck, etc). So we paid $30 more and--this is the first time I say this for any restaurant of this kind--we left having eaten almost nothing. Not adverse to small plates. On the contrary. But here we are talking a plate of root vegetables where there were literally about twelve pieces of various items (beats, turnip, etc) the size of your thumbnail). It literally amounted to two tablespoons. Good for the food cost I guess. Next a papardelles in a monstrous flying saucer of a dish with a tiny well at the center (I've seen smaller versions of this plate many times but this was ridiculous) held three noodles and some shreds of meat. We are talking two espresso cups worth. A scallop dish with one and a half (I kid you not, they divided a scallop in two!) scallops. A rabbit dish with a piece of loin, a piece of rabbit sausage the size of half a hotdog, and a piece of rabbit confit. This was the most copious dish and it was the size a small hamburger patty. Finally, a desert that once again sat in the tiny nook of a huge bowl and was a piece of génoise the size of a silver dollar with a dollop of ice-cream on it. So the portioning is completely ridiculous. You aren't supposed to feel like you went to the all-you-can-eat Country Kitchen, but you aren't supposed to crave a burger either, not after a $360 meal. My guess is they are working with a 15% food cost here. Good for your bottom line if you can get away with it.
Quality of the food. Well if every dish had been a little gem, I might have overlooked portion sizes. They were not. First, there seems to be no awareness here of the two most recent trends in cooking: foraging and molecular cuisine. Either taken to extremes is silly but they (particularly the latter) are tools that can really impact creativity and flavor. So, for example, for the first dish, there are so many playful things you can do with root vegetables. Little steamed cubes with what amounted to an insipid dressing smeared on the plate doesn't do it. No layering of flavors, to transformation of consistency, nothing really. This was a complete fail. The papardelle were fine. But if you are going to serve pasta in this kind of restaurant, they better rock. This is a dish I can make from scratch on my own (including rolling and hand cutting the noodles) in twenty minutes. And it will be better than this dish (salty and uninspired). The most successful dish of the evening was the scallops with puy lentils (except that they were, I believe the cheaper French lentils as they were a little larger and didn't have the wonderful green taste lentilles du puy have when done just right). Here the flavors were well composed. Only problem is that the scallops were an afterthought: this would have been just as good without them. The scallops were good, the lentils were good. The two didn't need to be together. The rabbit dish: overly salted is the first thing. This may be the only place where a "new" cooking technique was used, as in sous-vide for the rabbit loin. Or at least I think so since it had that weird gelatinous consistency sous vide gets--only it was then overcooked on the warming process. In fact both loin and confit were stringy, salty, with no distinction or delicacy of flavor. So-called boudin blanc of rabbit was in fact a finely ground rabbit sausage. Boudin blanc: tamis--not texture. A quenelle in a casing. This was not a boudin blanc and again, salty. Desert was uninspired square of génoise with ice-cream on top. So none of this was horribly bad but for the price and pretension, this was really a mediocre place to eat. read more