Came in for dinner at South Front Tavern with two colleagues who between them have nearly fifty…read moreyears of North Carolina under their belts. I'm the St. Louis visitor in the group, here to be educated on what Southern cooking is supposed to taste like. The verdict by the end of the night was mixed.
The space itself is cute and clean, with an industrial-chic, open feel inside, but it gets very loud once it fills up, like hard to hear your side neighbor loud. We lucked into a set of club chairs in a corner away from the main dining area, which knocked the noise down enough that we could hear each other. Without that, I'm honestly not sure we would have stayed. The host didn't blink at seating us over there, and the wait staff throughout the night was friendly.
Drinks were fine across the table. My grilled peach old fashioned was the only one I tried, and I was hoping for a sharper, smokier profile, what I got leaned peachy without much else going on. The clams my friend ordered had a little grit in them, so not perfectly cleaned, but the flavor was there.
The six-hour baby back ribs was a great start, great sauce, not smothered, fall-off-the-bone tender, the kind of thing I'd come back for. I didn't get a photo because we tore into them too fast, which tells you most of what you need to know.
After that, things got uneven. The pork empanadas are listed with an ancho chili jam, but no jam or sauce came with ours. The pastry was crisp and tasty, but the pork inside was under-seasoned, and we left a whole empanada on the plate. The crab cakes was the bigger letdown, my friend, who grew up in Maryland and knows what a crab cake should be, said hers tasted more like a flat, minced patty (possibly with fish filler) than actual crab. She didn't finish it. My gumbo ya-ya had chicken, shrimp, and andouille, but the sauce was thin and tomato-forward where I was hoping for, and a richer sauce. Spice was fine; the whole thing just landed middle-of-the-road.
Desserts split the difference. The key lime crème brûlée was genuinely excellent, I'd order it again on its own. The North Carolina blueberry bread pudding was beautifully plated but a little dry in execution for use. We left half of it.
One thing worth flagging: the restaurant closes at 8:30, and at 8:30 sharp, with us still finishing dessert, the music came on with the unmistakable "we're closed" energy, even though we'd arrived at 7 and no one else was wandering in late. It made the end of the meal feel rushed in a way that didn't match the otherwise warm service.
3.4 starts out of 5.
To be fair: we didn't leave feeling the food was bad, just that we'd ordered into the weaker half of the menu. Our server highly recommended the skillet mac and cheese and the quesadillas, and the skillet cornbread looked great online - we just didn't pull the triggers. We have generous optimism a version of this meal that goes much better than ours did, and on a second visit I'd lean into those recommendations.
For now, though, with friends in town and a list of places I haven't tried yet, I probably won't be steering people here for your one night in Wilmington. I'd come back to give it a fairer second shot if I lived here.