If I went into Dulce Pizza with a blindfold on and only tasted their food without sight of its surroundings, it would definitely have another star after its name. Yet, blessed with sight, the worn and crumby surfaces and poor condition of the shopping center where it is located, impact my overall impression negatively and detract from what would otherwise be a surprisingly good meal.
My first choice for dinner was the place next door, but its kitchen closed at 3 and they were locking up shortly. I saw Dulce and headed over. It looked like any other pizzeria, with pies in the oven and a small dining room with tubular chairs with holes in the seats and crumbs from earlier meals still laying around. This joint would never be mistaken for clean. It somehow reflected the poorly maintained condition of the shopping center, which had some of the largest parking lot potholes imaginable. A few customers were sitting around manging, so I took a chance and asked for an eggplant parmesan dinner with side salad and pasta. I ordered and paid at the cashier and took a seat near the front window to await it's arrival. I wasn't feeling too enthused about what might be coming my way, but I had already paid, so I was committed.
The salad came first with balsamic, romaine, tomato, red onion, black olives, cukes and that little plastic tub of dark brown viniagrette. It was cool and fresh. Not great, but not bad. The main platter arrived next with a red sauce covered load of very thin sliced, breaded and sauteed melanzone. The gravy was chunky and seemed to shine in the natural light from the window. I lowered my head to get a wiff of the steaming sauce. Its crushed tomato, garlic and basil aroma forced me back in my chair from its powerful scent.
What?! Wait a second. Was there someone in the kitchen who knew from red sauce? Must have been because when I forked that first bite into my mouth, it completely took charge of my taste buds, squeezed them hard, and forced me to involuntarily mutter, "Damn!" It was that exceptional. The eggplant was soft and totally baked, without a hard spot to be found. It tasted like it might have been sauteed twice before reaching the oven.
Then I tried the penne aglio olio I had requested rather than spaghetti with more red. It was also very good with a surfeit of sliced garlic throughout and a pool of extra virgin in the bottom of the bowl keeping it hot and dripping. A dusting of black pepper, romano and dried parsley on top provided the finishing note. Also, way better than expected.
Of course they forgot the bread to complete my total confounding.
What to do when the grub is better than good, but the facility and surroundings cry out for some TLC?
Wear a blindfold and eat. read more