tl;dr the outlandish appetizers are more gimmicky than great, but the delicious lamb chops, solid…read moresides, and complimentary creme brulee rounded out a memorable meal
When it comes to Denver restaurants, few are as iconic as The Fort Restaurant. This home-turned-restaurant was constructed in 1962 as a full-scale replica of Bent's Old Fort (a historic fur-trading post along the Santa Fe Trail). The wild game-centric menu is inspired by nineteenth century Western fare, with some modern creative liberties. Nowadays, The Fort remains a popular destination for locals and out-of-towners, and the grounds host regular educational and cultural events. It is even listed on the National Registry of Historic Places.
In the evening, the bottom-lit fort pops against the pitch-black background. Enter the courtyard to be greeted by a toasty campfire. Check in at the ranch house-style lobby to the left, then roll through the cabin-esque saloon on the right to sip a cocktail and nibble on an appetizer while awaiting a table. The dining room up front, bridging the bar and lobby, is harshly lit and cramped with closely packed tables; the dimly lit, quieter dining room in the back is infinitely more relaxing. Instrumental Southwestern guitar music plays respectfully in the background.
I visited with friends for weekend dinner, and The Fort was packed during prime time. We kicked off our meal with a half-serving Historian's Platter, featuring nibbles of The Fort's most iconic appetizers. My favorite was the buffalo tongue crostinis, paired with rich garlic aioli. The lime- and salt-forward guacamole and sturdy tortilla chips were no slouch, either. The "Boudies" buffalo sausage wasn't much more memorable than a hot dog, while the peanut butter-stuffed jalapeños were odd but not off-putting. The Rocky Mountain oysters paired excellent crispy panko battering with a characteristically offaly iron flavor; the accompanying caper salsa was on the sweet side. From the complimentary bread basket, we preferred the autumnal pumpkin-and-walnut muffin to the standard dinner roll. The diminutive side salad sported an addictive chipotle honey dressing and the intriguing addition of salty-and-sour pickled ginger. For our entree, we shared the General Armijo's Colorado Lamb T-bones. The melt-in-your-mouth lamb was excellently seasoned and perfectly cooked; I picked the bones clean. Across the sides, we were most impressed by the cast-iron President Jefferson's Favorite Mild Green Chile Mac N' Cheese, which featured premium cheeses, chile chunks, and a crispy baked top. The Fort Potatoes (chopped and caramelized with onions and beans) were a heartier and saucier take on roasted potatoes, while the Goat Cheese Green Chile Grits were creamy but one-dimensional in flavor. For dessert, we were gifted a complimentary Creme Brulee to celebrate our special occasion. The decadent pumpkin-spice custard was addictive, and the signature "party hat" was icing on the cake (or, erm, creme brulee).
The service had its hiccups -- our reserved table wasn't ready for nearly 30 minutes, and our waiter forgot our a la carte elk steak (ultimately, a blessing in disguise, as we were full even before dessert). Nonetheless, we felt welcomed and genuinely cared for. Our bill totaled $150 (including 2 drinks, tax, and tip). While expensive at face-value, the price was on the cheaper side compared to peer kitschy Colorado steakhouses. The overall experience was a net positive, worthy of a visit.
