I'm always a little dubious of restaurants attached to hotels. You can't help but suspect that they are just riding on the coat-tails of the hotel name. And sometimes it's not just the hotel's name, sometimes it's also an absent semi-famous chef who lends their name to help promotion. However I am pleased to say that Culshaw's, on the ground floor of the Majestic Rooftop Garden Hotel, holds it's own as a restaurant.
On arrival, I was suprised to see the dining room empty at 7pm. And although it did fill slowly over the next 90 minutes, aside from two walk-ins it was predominantly hotel guests dining. Such a shame, as the meal was one of the best I've had in some time. I would like to think that the menu would be pulling people in from all over - but perhaps it was just an 'offnight'.
Wearing black jeans and a pair of Gallaz shoes, I felt a little underdressed. With the arrival of tourists wearing shorts and sandals though, I felt the status of my attire rise considerably.
The staff were incredibly attentive, and there was no need to flag anyone down. While Culshaw's wouldn't sit at the top of the silver-service ladder, I get the feeling it's not trying to be that kind of place. It's contemporary dining with a streak of that silvery service. The wait staff are knowledgable but not stiff, and you can be sure your water and wine glasses will be kept filled without prompting. They have definitely perfected the art of hovering, without being in your face.
As explained by our waiter, the Head Chef looks to utilise bush foods throughout the dishes. There is a comprehensive glossary at the back of the menu which is handy for those not as au fait with 'bush tucker'. (Don't worry, no witchety grubs here!)
For entree I actually ordered a starter, their beer damper which was a tasty morsel. Crusty exterior with soft bread within. For mains I elected to go with the aged scotch fillet (medium-rare), served on a smokey bed of butternut and paprika mash, lightly fried red onion rings (so, so sweet!) and rosemary port glaze. Of course, steak isn't complete without a side of the seasoned potato chips. These were lightly cooked all cripsy, no grease with a dusting of seasoning.
And of course what is a night out without a sweetie or two? As I'm a panna cotta fiend, I just couldn't go past the vanilla bean, yoghurt and rosella flower panna cotta. It's serve with a piece of candied orange and a piece of rosewater jelly (read: turkish delight) drizzled in white chocolate. The sweetest touch of this dessert, was that an extra piece of rosewater jelly and an extra spoon to cater for my partner who had elected (possibly wisely, considering how wonderfully stuffed full 'o food I felt at this stage!) to partake in only a post-dining long black coffee. Just a small gesture, but helps to imprint this place on my foodie heart.
We did return to Culshaws for breakfast the next morning as well (since we were staying at the hotel). Buffet breakfasts get some pretty bad rap, and is often a harbinger of disappointment:
1. disappointment when you expect a hot buffet, and instead you find miniature boxes of Kellogs Special K, a jug of tepid milk and a pile of dried bread next to the converyer-belt toaster. This is often flanked by a pot of dishwater masking as coffee, and if you're REALLY lucky a few limp rubber croissants.
2. disappointment when you DO get a hot buffet, and you find that the rubber croissants have been joined by some rubber eggs. Sometimes with the inclusion of a pile of anaemic bacon.
Culshaws offered neither of these disappointments. Instead there was a small, but solid buffet breakfast. On the hot side they stuck to only scrambled eggs (which were surprisingly light, and non-watery), thick slices of bacon that were well cooked but not to the point of elastication (is this even a word!?), chipolatas, mushrooms and tomatoes. There was the continental option as well, with cereal, bread, spreads and the wee-est, sweetest pastries. Coffee is still by the pot, but if you pay a few dollars more you can have a fresh made latte.
This is what modern Australian cuisine should be. It is neither pretentious, nor filled with TV chef endorsement. It's food is unfussy, yet sophisticated with the inclusion of fresh bush flavours. The wine list (which I just realised I have neglected to mention previously!) is a decent size, and offers local as well as interstate wines. An intimate option for when you don't want to venture too far afield from the hotel, and also worthy of an independent visit. read more
