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Though not exactly completely unknown, I don't think the Latymer restaurant is on most foodies' radars. Chef Michael Wignall was recruited from the Devonshire Arms Hotel in North Yorkshire where he won a Michelin star to head up the fine dining restaurant at Pennyhill Park, which is famous for hosting the England rugby team's training camps
The Latymer won its first Michelin star this year and speaking to the staff, they're hungry for success and aiming even higher. I think they are well on their way with top class ingredients, innovative cooking methods and combinations, pretty presentation and most importantly, great flavour
I took my sister and a friend here on Saturday for my sister's birthday. The 50 cover restaurant is housed in a lovely snug part of the country house hotel
The service was very friendly and not overbearing. The staff were all well trained with all the servers able to answer questions about the dishes. There was also no hard sell on the alcohol, which can be annoying in some fine dining places
We enjoyed some nice canapes with aperitifs - G&Ts for the ladies and a non alcoholic cocktail for me. It was nice to see a choice of gin offered and eventually, Bombay Sapphire and slow gin were chosen while the barman concocted me a drink with cranberry juice, strawberry and raspberry puree. It's nice for us teetotalers/drivers to feel as valued as the alcohol drinkers
The canapes included tiny cigars filled with foie gras & truffle, mini prawn toasts, deep fried risotto balls, prawn sashimi and a variety of breadsticks with 2 dips. All moreish and we had to control ourselves with these and the variety of fresh baked bread
Although there were some yummy looking dishes on the a la carte, we went with the 10 course tasting menu
1. Truffle ballotine of marinated foie gras, seared foie gras, carpaccio of duck, beetroot caviar, pickled pear puree with pear crisp, butternut squash sorbet
Some of my favourite ingredients on the plate and it was fun to try and mix the different elements on the plate in different mouthfuls
2. Cannelloni of tuna, lime & soy sauce, octopus presse, ginger marshmallow, Oscietra caviar
The tuna was divine and matched perfectly with the lime and soy film it was wrapped in
3. Loin & spicy boudin of Lakeland hare, Hereford snails, marjoram cabbage, blck eye peas, bitter chocolate scented jus
Cooked sous-vide, the hare was tender and had a gamey flavour. I also loved the marjoram cabbage. My dining companions were surprised how much they enjoyed the boudin noir
4. Seared hand dived scallops, poached quail egg, apple, cider & walnuts, apple emulsion
The quail egg yolk oozed out onto the sweet scallop. Yum
5. Warm sardine, Scottish langoustine, anchovy on toast, roast pepper, Bagna Cauda jus
The oily sardine was offset perfectly by the sweet pepper
6. Poached & roast croise duck with Agen prunes, coriander gnocchi, shallots, parsley root puree, jasmine jus
My favourite dish of the evening - perfectly cooked duck with some innovative and interesting companions. Yes, it did taste of lavender!
7. Fourme d'Ambert, Beaufort, poached quince, smoked paprika crisp, Pedro Ximenez jelly
8. Pear & almond tart, liquorice sabayon, pear sorbet
Lovely light tart full of pear flavour
9. Pineapple baba, confit pineapple, coconut cream, coconut sorbet
A nice fruity take on the rum baba but once again, very light
10. Warm chocolate moelleux, honey comb, lavender ice cream, honey jelly
A rich chocolate dessert with liquid centre. The obligatory popping space dust made an appearance
A top class menu. Michael Wignall demonstrated immaculate sourcing of top class ingredients, great knowledge and technique of classic and modern cooking techniques, introduced wow factor into his food and left us with a smile on our faces
Only slight disappointment for me was that my dining companions vetoed my wish to ask for a kitchen visit to thank the chef personally.
I've been very privileged to have eaten at some terrific 2 and 3 Michelin star etablishments this year - Fat Duck in Bray, Marcus Wareing in London, Aqua in SF and Momofuku Ko in New York. The Latymer is definitely up there with them. They should retain their Michelin star easily next year and be pushing for the next level