I've been to Berthillon twice now and was really stoked for my second visit. I feel less strongly about the place now than I did a month ago, but I would still recommend it without hesitation.
The place is tiny and pretty cute, a literal hole in the wall, with nowhere to sit and enjoy your ice cream. The hole is manned by one worker, who, based on my two trips, is probably not too friendly. I wouldn't ask for samples, that's for sure. You choose between a "simple" and a "patissier" cone - basically, standard or waffle. I've tried both and I'm sure they're both fine ordinarily, but on my second visit, my patissier cone was stale. It doesn't matter how good your ice cream is if you put it in a bad cone. This was one of the worst I've had, and I peeled most of it into the trash like it was wet cardboard.
You then choose your number of scoops and flavors. The scoops are really tiny, so if you're used to American portions I would suggest at least three. Three is probably equivalent to a full-sized scoop at home - they're really doled out by a melon baller. They're cute, which is an advantage, but I suppose bigger portions wouldn't hurt.
I've spewed a lot of criticism so far, but the ice cream is truly remarkable. The texture is smooth and creamy yet wonderfully light, and the flavors are strong but do not rely on excesses of sugar. I think I actually prefer the fruit flavors to everything else - I've tried passionfruit, mango, and strawberry, and all three were bloomed with the pure essence of the fruits they were meant to deliver. They were crisp and refreshing and absolutely wonderful. I also love the caramel, with its browned taste and restrained sweetness. The ginger caramel, however, is the least of the flavors I've tried - the ginger is just overpowering. No other complaints, though. The hazelnut was just right, as was the luscious tiramisu. Even the vanilla was more than vanilla.
I doubt I will ever come to Paris without stopping by Berthillon, but it pains me that the place is inconsistent when I can visit at most once every two to five years. The awful cone and the less than pleasant scoop of ginger caramel on my most recent pilgrimage left me very disappointed. I hope that my next trip will restore my faith in Berthillon. read more