Malai Kitchen in Clearfork is a welcome detour from a shopping afternoon, Thai and Vietnamese…read morecuisine in a bright, airy space that makes you want to settle in for longer than your credit card probably intended.
A quick note on seating: the patio is lovely in theory, with the optional open windows and a breezy feel, but the chairs are not winning any comfort awards. Inside booths are the move. Also worth noting, this is Fort Worth, and once the thermometer hits triple digits, the patio conversation ends itself if the windows are open. Plan accordingly.
Malai starts every table with steamed sticky rice and an eggplant dip, which is a charming little ritual and a genuinely good one. We also kicked things off with the Edamame, a heads up on the heat level there, and the Fried Imperial Rolls, filled with ground pork and shrimp and served with a sesame soy sauce. Fair warning: these do not photograph well and arrive at the table looking a little shy. Don't be fooled. They're flavorful, subtly spicy, and well worth ordering.
For entrees, we tried the Basil Vegetable Fried Rice two ways, one vegan and one with chicken. The vegan version was a genuine surprise, with vegetables cooked just right and a flavor that didn't need the chicken to make its case. The mushrooms, however, had the texture of something you'd find in a hardware store. Chew at your own risk. The Green Curry, meanwhile, was a case of too much of a good thing. The curry was so heavy-handed it drowned everything underneath it. Sometimes restraint is a virtue.
Save room for the Banana Pot de Crème. It's creamy, subtly sweet, and a graceful finish to the meal.
The service at Malai is enthusiastic, and I do mean enthusiastic. The staff works as a team, all smiles, attentive, always nearby. Occasionally a little too nearby. More than once a plate nearly disappeared before we were done with it. It's a small complaint, and honestly a far better problem than the alternative. They're warm, cheerful, and clearly enjoy what they do, which goes a long way.
Portions are generous, so order a few dishes and share the wealth. For a lunch stop between shops, Malai Kitchen punches well above its weight.
