This is authentic Shanghai cuisine. I say it because I grew up eating Shanghai food prepared in an old fashion. It is rare because in this modern era, many chefs have given in the tradition to the fusion world that caters the preference of a different generation. The truth is that while my eyes are so pleased by the so call fusion on my dishes, my taste buds are angry. Call me nostalgic. I do miss the flavor simmered in an old fashion way. Gladly, I am in Hong Kong, and I am treating my taste buds with respect at Lao Shang Hai Restaurant.
Although the restaurant itself looks rather ordinary and senior server waited on me in such a snobbish tune, I find these all a totally old fashion Shanghai style. I can't help but to indulge myself into a nostalgic moment. Despite the suggestion of ordering the seasonal hairy crab dishes, I went straight to the "braised eel with garlic in dark soy sauce" and "grass tips in Chinese rice wine". Both dishes are inexpensive and straight forward old fashion.
The striped eel are quickly stir fried in a ginger-garlic flavored hot oil; then pour in a gush of Shao Xing rice wine to bust out the flavor; add couple tablespoon of dark soy sauce and a pinch of sugar; cover and simmer for few minutes; sprinkle a handful chopped green onion on top of the ell and pour the sizzling hot oil on the dish before serving. The vegetable dish is even simpler. Fresh grass tips, extremely hot oil, and Chinese rice wine with 70% alcohol. After a short stir fry, it is done.
The old fashion emphasis on the color, fragrance, and taste. Both dishes have accomplished these goals. The reason I choose these two dishes is because the simplicity hides no flaws. Simple color and uncontaminated flavor are the tradition that will never be out of fashion. read more