Fare on Eighth -- Is the Juice Worth the Squeeze?
Fare on…read moreEighth has real potential, standout ingredients, and a few dishes worth returning for. However, on this Friday night, inconsistent food execution and slow, disorganized service kept the overall experience from matching the restaurant's concept, atmosphere, or likely price point.
The concept behind Fare is appealing: fresh and local ingredients, a healthier and more natural approach to food, creative flavors, and a setting that feels different from many of the usual dining options in Meridian. When the kitchen got it right, the food was genuinely enjoyable. Unfortunately, there were enough misses,in both food and service,that the evening became more frustrating than it should have been.
The Food
Let's start with the star of any restaurant: the food.
We began with the Truffle Pomme Frites and the Whipped Goat Cheese and Bacon with Fare Crackers.
The Truffle Pomme Frites were close to what I expected,different, crisp, and not heavy with grease. They had a good crunch and felt like a more thoughtful take on traditional fries. The truffle sauce, however, was a little bitter for my taste. A few people at the table enjoyed both the texture and flavor, so this may simply come down to personal preference.
The clear winner of the night was the Whipped Goat Cheese and Bacon. It was excellent. The hot honey drizzled over the top created a spread that was creamy, savory, sweet, and--most importantly--had bacon. The Fare Crackers appeared to be wedge-shaped, similar to fried tortilla wedges, and they paired perfectly with the goat cheese. Every bite worked. We were genuinely disappointed when the crackers ran out, so we asked for more.
It was Sushi Night, and we have eaten sushi in many places around the world. We appreciated Fare's attempt to put a healthier and more natural spin on sushi, and the ingredients tasted fresh. Still, the sushi was not the star of the evening.
We ordered California Rolls and Spicy Crab Rolls with extra Sriracha. The California Rolls were fine,nothing bad, but nothing especially memorable. The Spicy Crab Rolls lacked heat and came across as bland, especially considering they were described as spicy. We requested additional Sriracha, but it took so long to arrive that the rolls had reached room temperature and were beginning to fall apart.
Fare uses coconut aminos instead of traditional soy sauce. That is certainly a healthier alternative, and some people may prefer it. It was different and not bad, but it was not my preference with sushi.
The Herb Lamb Chops were cooked properly and seasoned well. We received three small lamb chops, prepared to the requested temperature, with the right amount of sauce. They were good. However, they arrived alone, without a side or accompaniment. That reinforced the feeling that much of the menu is designed more like elevated bar food than a complete dinner entrée experience.
The biggest disappointment was the half Cauliflower Margherita Pizza. The cauliflower crust itself was fine, but the pizza did not work. The sauce tasted canned, the cheese was not special, and the overall presentation suggested it had been overcooked. I cannot say whether it was frozen or freshly made, but it tasted more like something reheated than something prepared fresh to order. Simply put: it was not good.
The Atmosphere
Fare on Eighth has a distinctive look and a concept that could create a great social atmosphere. On a busy Friday night, though, the layout felt more stylish than practical.
The restaurant is not large. A long bar occupies much of the space, with bar seating and several round tables behind it. There is also a long bench along the wall. It looks good at first glance, but the round tables are not well suited for four people. There simply is not enough usable table space, and guests end up competing for room to set plates, drinks, appetizers, and shared dishes.
Square tables would likely work much better for parties of four. The room had a nice ambiance, but it was also very dimly lit. That may support the intended aesthetic, but it can make an already tight space feel even more crowded.
One thing Fare did do well: we called ahead and made a reservation, and our table for four was ready when we arrived. On a Friday night with limited seating, that was appreciated.
The Service
Unfortunately, service was the biggest problem of the evening.
After being seated, we waited for a while with only bar menus available. Eventually, someone who was not our server came over and said a waitress would be with us shortly. We asked for menus and were brought only two because they did not have enough menus available.
Eventually, our drink order was taken. Our waitress then arrived with the drinks, and we were able to place the food order. When the appetizers arrived, there were no plates, silverware, or knife for the goat cheese spread. We had to flag someone down and request those basic items.
