Boston's First Sake Bar Arrives in Brighton and has officially opened for service, starting on 2022-02-10. As a sake aficionado, I could not resist this opportunity to see what The Koji Club brings to the city.
I arrived at the Speedway, which houses a biergarten and other establishments, in addition to the Koji Club. The establishment itself is fairly small, with a countertop capable of seating 7-8, 3 small tables for two, and additional high tables outside. The work space behind the counter seemed deep enough only for a single employee. This all evoked the Tokyo bar scene. Small bars, run by a single person serving maybe 5 people on a single counter, dot the metropolis. All this made for an intimate atmosphere.
The establishment itself provides various bar snacks, such as sesame oil olives and curry empanadas in additional to specialty sakes. Pricing seems comparable with wine bars. Each glass contains 4oz of sake at 16-19% ABV and is priced at the upper $10s and lower $20s (more for extra premium sakes).
The staff are all quite knowledgable about sake and, more importantly, ready to field questions from first-timers and aficionados alike. They will explain the concept of rice polishing (semaibuai) and its effect on classification (e.g. junmai vs junmai gingo) and also taste (earthy & robust vs floral & delicate).
Moreover, the staff are all more than willing to experiment with how to serve the sake. Most sakes here come chilled in champagne glasses. However, during conversation with staff, we discussed the effects of temperature on flavor and how different sake styles react differently toward being served at different temperatures. This led to me trying a junmai daigingo (a style normally served cold) that nonetheless held its flavor while hot.
Lastly, the variety of sake flavors bears mention. The establishment carries orthodox sakes with wide appeal. Additionally, it carries newer sakes from upstart breweries. One example is the Fukucho Seaside, a sparkling sake made in Hiroshima. Sake is ordinarily not carbonated, but the brewery decided to make a champagne-like experience.
Another is the Mukai Shuzo, a sake made from red rice. Its crimson color sets it apart from all other sakes, which are usually completely transparent (like vodka), cloudy white, or yellow but clear (like sparkling wine). The flavor also does not fit anywhere on the standard spectrum of earthy and robust (junmai) or floral and fruity and bubblegum-y (daigingo). Instead, this red rice sake tasted sweet, almost like mead of barley wine.
As far as sake bars go, The Koji Club seems to do nicely. It has knowledgeable and patient staff, an intimate atmosphere, and an impressively curated sake selection. I certainly look forward to returning, but maybe after my wallet has recovered from its wine-bar esque pricing. read more