A historic property built by a famous California architect and housed on an active military base surrounded on all sides by national forest lands and not one but two wilderness areas (Ventana, Silver Peak), the Hacienda is not for the faint of heart. Unless you are visiting friends or family at Fort Hunter Liggett, for which the Hacienda provides affordable accomodations, a visit here is something of a California Big Sur road trip pilgrimage, one that will require a little advanced planning on your part, and a fair bit of adventurousness thrown in for good measure. You and your guests will need to secure base access by submitting to an FBI background check, and you'll need to pick up your pass at the Vistor Center before entering the main gate of the base. It can also be difficult to make reservations by phone, since the staffing, while polite and helpful, is pretty minimal, and online reservations are not an option. If you want the deluxe experience, invest the $90/night in a Tower Room, which is the high end of the room choices and offers the best introduction to the historic nature of the former Hearst hunting lodge that catered to the rich, the well-connected, the beautiful, or the famous. Otherwise, a $50 Cowboy Room, which features separate shared (and clean) bathrooms and showers for men and women, as well as a mini-fridge in each room is a cost-effective alternative.
While there are food and bar options available, and while the base has a gas station, bowling alley, movie theater, and grocery/convenience store on site to which Hacienda guests have access, a good idea in fair weather (spring, summer, early fall) is to bring your own food and beverages and dine outside on the beautiful patio picnic area, where you can look out over the lush surroundings of the San Antonio valley and savor the setting sun over the Santa Lucia mountains. If you're arriving from US-101 via King City, you should consider a stop at the Schied Family Vineyards tasting room outside Greenfield (11 am-5 pm) to pick up some bottles of wine to enjoy with your meals. An electronic water kettle also gives you the means to make things like tea and pour over coffee (I bring a Hario hand grinder and V60 dripper to make fresh cups using locally roasted beans purchased en route at a place like Vertigo in San Juan Bautista or Dark Nectar in Templeton) as well as breakfast fare like oatmeal, although the room also comes with a basic continental breakfast ($5 for additional ones), which comes with fruit, yogurt, orange juice, muffin, boiled egg, jam or honey, a granola bar, or some variation of the same. A good dinner option is to bring along bread, cheese, and farmers market veg (radishes, cucumbers, tomatoes in season etc), and to enjoy a chilled glass of Scheid white wine (they come with screw top closures rather than corks). Bring your own glasses, though (we bring plastic stemless wine glasses and titanium camping mugs for the coffee), unless you want to use the disposables provided in the rooms.
The Hacienda feels like an unlikely place, part living history museum, part base camp for hiking and exploring the Los Padres national forest, part working US army facility where live fire exercises are not uncommon, and where the howls of local coyote packs often break the stillness of the early morning hours. If you are planning an ascent of Junipero Serra Peak and don't want to camp at Indians Station, you can stay at the Hacienda and get an early predawn start to your hike, then return back to the lushly landscaped grounds to enjoy a hearty meal and hot shower when you get back. A more perfect California road trip adventure can hardly be imagined, especially if you leave the Hacienda heading west toward Highway 1 on Fergusson Nacimiento Road, which will drop you off at the foot of the Pacific within easy reach of San Simeon and Hearst Castle to the south, or to Big Sur Station, Monterey, and the Carmel Valley to the north, with iconic stops like Essalen, Nepenthe, the Henry Miller Library, McWay Falls, the Bixby Bridge, and Point Lobos all within a day's drive.
If you're looking for a slightly different way to explore the Big Sur interior, build a short 1-2 day stop at the Hacienda into your road trip itinerary. It's a pretty memorable place, utterly unique, and highly unlikely. If the Hacienda did not already exist, it would surely have to be invented. As it is, it hardly seems real, and you will leave with more questions than answers. That condition, in the existential "why are we here and where are we going?" grand scheme of the things, is what makes the Hacienda much more than a place to stop for the night, but a deeply philosophical human experience that cannot be had anytime or anywhere else - even if you are not aware of it at the time. Then again, maybe it's just a room with a view, That's for you to decide; but my mind is already made up, at least until the next visit. read more