When planning the Oban leg of our Scottish tour, Etive Restaurant came up time and time again as…read moreone of the premier fine dining establishments in the region. The venue is intimate but not stuffy, swathed in a darker blue color palette with tartan-print carpeting and plenty of maps adorning he walls. The cartographic imagery was very much in theme, as Etive has a clear central driving force: it is a love letter to the terroir and sea-equivalent (merroir?) that produces the best Scottish ingredients. The name itself is a reference to Loch Etive, near which where the restaurant's predecessor was located in Argylle prior to its move south to Oban in 2017. The restaurant was commended in the Michelin guide starting in 2018.
David, one of the co-owners and resident sommelier, was our waiter and his passion for both his roots and the restaurant program clearly shone through. We started off with some pre-dinner aperitifs, of which there are but two choices: a Gibson martini and a negroni. Both were sensational. The martini told a maritime story by marrying a local gin from the island of Iona, stinging nettle liqueur, and some briny pearl onions. The negroni comprised of local 100-proof gin was rich and well-balanced. We also had a lovely Rioja with dinner (Arzuaga Ribera del Duero Crianza 2018) that was a solid recommendation. Then commenced the tasting portion of the evening which, for me, was the "Land & Sea" experience:
Homemade bread with cultured butter - simple but delicious. Not sure what it is about the butter in Europe, but it's so complex and well-salted compared to the stuff back home.
Smoked Salmon and Steelhead Trout Tarts - two little savory fish pastries in flaky pate brisée crust, served on a framed topographic map as a plate. Delicate and smoky flavors and pretty presentation.
Crab Cornetto - crispy cones stuffed with crab meat and topped with thick trout roe. The crab was sweet and fresh, but the caviar was surprisingly not especially salty and I felt that the bites could use some extra salinity.
Atlantic Brill - thin moist fish over a stew of eggplant, tomato, and eggplant. There were nice tangy and rustic flavors here, but this wasn't the most memorable dish.
Potato chowder - pureed and whole potatoes in an impossibly decadent dish with funky Isle of Mull cheddar, truffle oil, and finely chopped chives. Like a classic baked potato on steroids, in the best way.
Venison Loin and Haunch - the lamb was just perfectly cooked, one of the best iterations I've had. The deer - served two-ways as both a juicy steak and shredded meat - was paired with earthy and vegetal elements in the form of broccoli puree, foraged chanterelle mushrooms, and crunchy leek. The tangy and full-bodied sauce underneath was wonderful as well.
Oban 14-year-old Whisky Ice Cream - tasted just like single-malt whisky, which was just fine for me. The wood and sea spray notes came through, as well as some nuttiness from the toasted oats. I do think it could've done with a little more of the heather honey to give it a tad more sweetness, as it is a dessert after all.
Bramble Souffle - an excellent finish that married tart blackberry with sweet, aromatic English tea in the form of a gooey warm little cake with a creamy scoop of Earl Grey ice cream.
We absolutely loved our experience here, not only for the delicious food but to witness the respect the team has for Scotland's natural bounty. How many restaurants makes the effort to list the specific lake, village, or island of origin for every major ingredient? Run don't walk here if you are looking for a memorable meal in Oban.
