We went to the River Cottage Canteen for the second time, for a snack before an event at the Guildhall nearby, and were unimpressed by the food and ambiance. We nibbled a dish of roasted split peas, fava beans, smoked sea salt & rosemary. It was frankly unpleasant and very hard work, more suited for chickens to peck at. I had had some delicious edamame beans at Kyoto Kitchen a few nights earlier; a far better nibble dish.
We had a starter of Isle of Wight Heritage tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, black garlic and croutons that was a very nearly tasteless and incredibly the croutons were cooked without oil or salt and were just bits of torn dry bread. We grow our own tomatoes and even buy quite good ones from local shops, but these had absolutely no flavour at all. Another dish of crab and asparagus was just ok, the asparagus slightly overcooked. Dessert of pannacotta was marred by the amount of hard nuts one had to crunch through before getting to the rather nice cream; unfortunately reminding one of the almost inedible split peas we started with.
Some delicious Yealands Sauvignon Blanc slightly retrieved the situation.
The restaurant should be fabulous - it's in a lovely building on the edge of a garden and has stream from the river Itchen rushing almost underneath it, but it lacks atmosphere and the main room feels like a school dining room (when the similarly decorated River Cottage at the Royal William Yard in Plymouth does not). The lower level next to kitchen may well be nicer but why, when the restaurant was almost empty when we arrived, put us in the dullest room? The food sadly seems to be 'worthy' rather than outstanding (although I have seen some lovely-looking dishes on their website), an impression also left from our first visit shortly after it opened. read more