The throwdown is on! Oakwood Village (Toronto) is the home of one of the best Jamaican Beef Patties. The place is iconic and has been around for decades. The Place is Randy's Patties (I'll review that next time I visit). But also on this strip of Eglington the home of three popular Jamaican joints that serve up jerk chicken into the wee hours of the morning. In fact, they don't start serving until 18:00 (Jamaican time, so it's really anywhere between 17:30-19:30 and I recommend that you don't come until at least 18:30). Regardless of when you arrive, expect to wait, there's always a line. Always.
There is metered street parking as well as a Green P nearby; and you can probably find free street parking on the adjacent streets. The area isn't the best, and the locals can probably smell fear, so don't show any of it. Service doesn't really exist even though there are tables, the business is 99.99% take out. The three restaurants competing are less than 100' apart. They are: Hot Pot, Raps, and Spence's.
All three places serve a variety of Jamaican cuisine, saltfish (cod) and ackee, goat, ox tail, plantain, rice and peas, etc. but the focus of this throwdown is JERK CHICKEN. All three places serve it the same way. You go into the restaurant, line up to order, pay, and receive an empty take out container for your chicken order. The prices are all the same for the same size containers. Small is $5, Large is $10. Cash only. Bring exact change.
Your container is simply filled up. No measuring, no weighing, your portion is what the chef puts into your container.
There are basically two elements to Jerk Chicken; there's the flavour of the chicken itself (spices and dry rub), and the flavour of the sauce that complements it. For all three places, the chicken is cooked in the ovens inside the restaurant and finished off on the charcoal grill outside. Wood chips are added for extra smokiness. Your order is served "Street Meat" style, the chicken is removed hot off the grills, chopped up, and put directly into your container. Sauce is optional, but if you get it, they put it directly onto the chicken (no separate containers)... you can't beat street meat!
Raps jerk chicken consists of full chicken legs only (no breasts), a typical and good choice since the dark meat contains more fat (for flavour), and retains more moisture so the meat doesn't dry out. It also contains more bone, and it's much cheaper than chicken breasts (good for the store, not so good for the consumer).
Being a purist, I needed to taste the chicken naked and sauced, so I asked for sauce only on one side of my container. The chicken was fully cooked, moist and tender as would be expected from dark meat. The skin was crispy and burnt in some areas, despite the lack of a flame on the grill.
The rub was excellent. Tonnes of flavour, allspice with hints of garlic, pepper (chipotle), chili pepper (not flakes), cloves, thyme, and probably at least 5 more. There was heat, but not enough to make me sweat. The crispy skin and the tender, juicy meat, was an absolute treat to my taste buds. 4,5 stars.
The sauce. There are two types, mild and spicy. I went for the spicy. There was definitely some heat here, but not too much that your tastebuds would be destroyed. While it was tabascoey, it wasn't pure tabasco. I didn't taste any flavours of Habanero, so it was most likely to be Scotch Bonnet. The sauce was runnier than gravy, yet thicker than tabasco, a good consistency for the dish. Other than the heat, the sauce did not do much to enhance the flavour of the chicken. 3 stars.
Overall, I pretty impressed with Raps Jerk. The flavour was infused into the meat and not just on the skin. I definitely preferred the naked chicken to that of the sauced chicken. 4 stars overall.
Next up: Hot Pot!
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