This is the first gym out of Austin (Austin Bouldering project) I've climbed at, and I can see how spoiled I am, but all things considered this is a great facility still.
It's on the small to medium size and is a brand new, clean gym. There's a good variety of angled walls, from overhung cave areas to vertical slab walls with a good variety of difficulty levels from V0-V7+. Holds are clean and problem settings are decent with individual routes being pretty easy to follow thanks to color coded holds and each route is labeled with a taped grade on the beginning hold.
It seems new routes are set by color weekly, with all orange routes being reset one week, and yellow problems being reset the next, for example, so it makes it easy to locate new problems for frequent members and easy to know which will be coming down soon if you're trying to finish a problem before it's gone.
My main gripe however, is the lack of enough down climb holds. There are plenty of large gaps with no down climb holds nearby at the top of routes and when you're climbing beyond V1-V2 levels with big, good holds, downclimbing after an exhaustive 100% effort can be a chore at best or a bit dangerous at worst with no easy way to get down. Coupled with the fact I wasn't made to read anything or sign a waiver, this seems like a liability for the gym.
I also wish the top of the wall surface was consistent. Some areas have a flat top edge while others have a narrow lip that you can more easily grip around, and it's harder to grab the flat edge when expecting the lip.
There are approximately 6-7 routes for sport climbing with auto belay machines, which would be fun, but probably not enough variety to keep strictly sport climbers satisfied.
I wish there were more volumes on the wall, to add more wall surface variety, and the bathrooms/locker room areas are small, but adequate, and lockers are free to use. People, employees and climbers are friendly and helpful. Overall it's a great gym. read more