We were in Berlin on a weekend away, hungry, in fact we were ravenous and we decided on a trip to The Bird for one of their legendary burgers. We hadn't booked a table, it was after 8 on a Thursday and the place was packed out. With the next table available at 11 we decided to go elsewhere and after checking the map and guidebook (a constant but generally unhelpful thing on this trip) we realized we were a short (if somewhat complicated) walk away from a traditional beergarden which served food. We set off past the stadium and arrived (more through luck than skill) at Prater Garten.
We wandered in to the deserted outside seating and found the bierhall (a long wooden building) and stepped through the door. We were immediately enveloped in noise, laughter and general merriment and seated amongst the crowds at a table for two. We ordered beer (schwartzbier for Mr Z and a weisse rot for me) and perused the menu of German delights. Starters of chanterelle or potato and sausage soup, salads, schnitzel, gulasch, bread dumplings and strudel, all simple but hearty goodness and all eliciting little squeals of joy from me as I read them.
We both settled on the schnitzel seeing as we had previously heard of their face-sized proportions and felt like stuffing our faces. The menu described the dish as Wiener schnitzel with potato salad and cucumber salad, which Mr Z is none too keen on (the S - word and all things green tasting are things of horror!) but undeterred he supped his beer and waited.
It was easy to relax whilst waiting for our food, the atmosphere was convivial and the diners consisted of a whole range of people from tourists, after work groups, families and couples of various ages. The place was busy but not overcrowded and the waiting staff were constantly on the move but managing to be incredibly friendly and efficient.
Our food arrived, two bowls of thinly sliced cucumber in a sour cream and dill dressing, and two massive plates loaded with thin crisp schnitzel and a delightfully golden mound of potato salad studded with chives. With a "mahlzeit" from the waitress we tucked in. The schnitzel was enormous, more than face-sized and beautifully tender and juicy. The coating was just thick enough to cover the meat in a sheet of yielding but crunchy crumb and obviously just out of the pan, and the whole experience of eating a piece was utter bliss, as silence seemed to descend for a brief moment of heaven. The potato salad was glorious, soft but not mashy, mustardy but not sharp, creamy and lemony with tiny hits of oniony loveliness from the chives and served slightly warm. Mr Z actually enjoyed his, but gave me his cucumber salad which was a bonus as I adore German cucumber salad to extreme levels!!
We unashamedly cleaned our plates and enjoyed every second of the meal, so much so that we returned for round two on the final night of our 4 day stay.
We arrived at much the same time as our first visit and being a warm Saturday night there were a good number of people sat out on the tables both on the restaurant decking and within the garden itself. Again as we entered the place was busy and loud and we were warmly greeted and taken to our table by a lovely waiter. This time I opted for a potato soup and beef gulasch and Mr Z once more ordered a schnitzel. The soup was delicious, a mix of creamy potato with chunks of smoky sausage and warm buttered bread to dunk in it, served in a deep white tureen style bowl. The schnitzel was as good as the first if not even better, and my gulasch was a rich deep brown, thick and packed with meltingly soft onion and intensely smokey paprika with a seriously generous helping of slow stewed large chunks of beef that fell apart when gently prodded with a spoon. It was served with two large semmelknodel (bread dumpling) which were probably the closest thing I could get to my many very happy childhood memories of my auntie's cooking in Austria. I was in food nirvana as was Mr Z and once more we filled our bellies to the extreme.
Ok, it's not particularly cheap to eat a schnitzel here (19 Euros) but it is veal, not pork, and it tastes bloody incredible so that in itself is worth the spend. Go there hungry and I would suggest reserving a table (just like everywhere good in Berlin) especially if you go in the summer because I'm sure it gets stupidly busy but you really must go there. read more